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Mickey Mouse Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Skink's Lip 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rob Candelaria
Page Views: 240
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002
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  • Description 

    This is a nice TR or heinous lead. Just left of Shiva's Dance and Monks in the Gym. This follows a couple thin, left-angling cracks and finishes on The Offset. Less than vertical. It has that not-climbed-much feel. Nice climb but not much pro.


    Protection 

    Maybe tiny wires or Aliens, maybe not. TR is better for enjoying more routes.



    Comments on Skink's Lip Add Comment
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    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Jul 30, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    This is a great toprope to do after shooting up Shiva's Dance (which is 10 ft to the R), although there would be a bit of a pendulum if you came off. Leading this would be as fast as toproping it, as there would be none of that pesky pro to put in...'cause it's just not there!

    The beginning has 2 cracks--a thin one (left) and a more flake-y one (right). The original FA intention, I assume, is to only use the thin one. Very cool, thoughtful moves. Stay in the crack until you HAVE to cut right onto the face...it's more fun that way.

    The bolts on the face immediately R of Skink's have ...been removed? ...were never there? That's a good detail to know, in case you wanted to locate it by them. This seems to be true of a few climbs in this area. Have fun!