Skink's Lip 5.10 X
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Rob Candelaria |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002 |
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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 each year. MORE INFO >>>
Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a nice TR or heinous lead. Just left of Shiva's Dance and Monks in the Gym. This follows a couple thin, left-angling cracks and finishes on The Offset. Less than vertical. It has that not-climbed-much feel. Nice climb but not much pro.
Protection Maybe tiny wires or Aliens, maybe not. TR is better for enjoying more routes.
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jul 30, 2004
rating: 5.10c
| This is a great toprope to do after shooting up Shiva's Dance (which is 10 ft to the R), although there would be a bit of a pendulum if you came off. Leading this would be as fast as toproping it, as there would be none of that pesky pro to put in...'cause it's just not there!
The beginning has 2 cracks--a thin one (left) and a more flake-y one (right). The original FA intention, I assume, is to only use the thin one. Very cool, thoughtful moves. Stay in the crack until you HAVE to cut right onto the face...it's more fun that way.
The bolts on the face immediately R of Skink's have ...been removed? ...were never there? That's a good detail to know, in case you wanted to locate it by them. This seems to be true of a few climbs in this area. Have fun! |
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