||Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Charley Graham, Herb Crimp, Sam Burrell, Jim Madore, Dylan Warren: May '09 and FFA March '11.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||morning shade|
|Page Views: ||931|
|Submitted By: ||charley graham on Nov 19, 2009|
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A unique Wingate route, Thin Ambivalence is a #00 tcu seam with pods and crimps that just barely link together. The first crux is getting gear in at 15 ft., where a tiny cam will slide in. The next section has better pro and a weird move getting both your hands and feet into a small pod all at once. A sit-down ledge follows, providing a rest before the powerful laybacking and mantle above the bolt. Finally, easy climbing accesses the belay stance.
The second pitch is best accessed by moving the belay 40 ft. right by walking along a sloping ledge. build a natural anchor with small to medium cams and get ready for the steep tips and face climbing that awaits. This pitch is short but exciting and very high quality.
Located in the center of the broad, flat southwest facing wall to the right of Ascended Yoga Masters on Parriot Mesa in Castle Valley. Thin Ambivalence begins from a spacious ledge, 50 ft. to the right of the obvious wide splitter, the Bob Novellino and Keith Reynolds classic Fat Crack Named Desire.
A single set of cams from #00 tcu to #4 Camalot and one quickdraw for the first pitch. The initial run-out is more enjoyable with a bouldering pad underneath you. There is one protection bolt and a fixed-stopper anchor. Take one additional green and yellow alien for the second pitch. Rappel from a two-bolt anchor with one 70 m rope.
Mar 5, 2010
regarding "a fat crack named desire". i swapped pitches with the living ledgend keith reynolds.