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Pistol Whipped
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Unsorted Routes:

Skidmarks 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,740
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Apr 14, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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Just laying it back. Be sure to bring the small c...

Description 

Skidmarks is the next route left from Short and Stupid on the right side of Pistol Whipped Wall. A 50ft. left-facing corner that starts out as thin tip liebacking to a bulging lieback crux (short-lived), to some fun moves up flakes with the occassional hand jam. The flakes look pretty thin, but they're fairly solid. Just don't place any gear behind them, get it down in the crack. A good warmup or just a fun little pitch to set up for lots of people to do along with Short and Stupid. Slings on the anchor should probably be replaced.


Protection 

I used 2 .5in. cams, 2 .75in. cams one .75camalot, and 1 #1 camalot. Could take a couple extra .5/.75 in. pieces and maybe one .4in. piece for the start.



Photos of Skidmarks Slideshow Add Photo
Sampson, D.A. having fun on the skid
Sampson, D.A. having fun on the skid
5.10
5.10
Comments on Skidmarks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron Shupp
Apr 16, 2002

Chris is right, definitely watch the thin flakes at the top. One of them wiggled a bit when I touched it.

By Brian Gee
Apr 19, 2002

Short but sweet.This is a great climb for someone with little to no leading experience in the creek. It was my first trad lead, creek style and I f@$%#&g loved it.

By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Apr 2, 2007

Slippery

By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Oct 27, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I stemmed the crux and found it much easier.

By mikejohnson1
From: Essex Junction, VT
Feb 17, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Really, really, really good pro. Every piece is placed from a comfortable stance. Good first lead for the creek.