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"Size Matters: A Gear Comparison"



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By Tyler Wick
From Campbell, CA
Feb 7, 2011
ECM

This excellent article was posted by PellucidWombat over at SummitPost.

www.summitpost.org/size-matters-a-gear-comparison/694359

A lot of climbers seem to scoff at this type of quantitative analysis and prefer to go on the subjective "feel" of gear, but I really enjoyed this writeup.

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By Phil Lauffen
From Louyuppie
Feb 7, 2011
On the arete.

Thats a great qualitative review. Thanks for sharing.

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By Justin Brunson
From Broomfield CO
Feb 7, 2011

this is really cool. i'd love to see all those cam ranges on the same chart so you can more easily compare sizes across brands.

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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Feb 7, 2011

Justin Brunson wrote:
this is really cool. i'd love to see all those cam ranges on the same chart so you can more easily compare sizes across brands.

www.clydesoles.com/Front/Camgraph.html

That article was nuts. Hard to believe that crunching all that data and making all those cute charts would be helpful to someone who is trying to learn crack/gear sizes, but I guess we're all wired different.

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By NickinCO
From Westminster, CO
Feb 7, 2011
me

Tyler Wick wrote:
This excellent article was posted by PellucidWombat over at SummitPost. www.summitpost.org/size-matters-a-gear-comparison/694359 A lot of climbers seem to scoff at this type of quantitative analysis and prefer to go on the subjective "feel" of gear, but I really enjoyed this writeup.


edit: works fine now, weird. That dude had a LOT of time on his hands!

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By Bill Matlin
Feb 7, 2011
suffering

If you have the right graphing program, charts like that can be spit out in no time at all.

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By Owen Darrow
From Garmisch,
Feb 7, 2011
Nice view

Definitely cool to see that

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By mattm
From TX
Feb 8, 2011
Grande Grotto

All that stuff is great. In the end though, it just confirms what I've kinda know all along...

Metolius needs to make a 1.5 and 3. TCU/Mastercam! Least amount of overlap of any cams in that range. A PITA if you ask me. CCH had their overlaps more dialed in...

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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Feb 8, 2011

The biggest problem with the entire analysis is that he says smearing only applies for cracks up to 4". He lost all credibility there.


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