This is a great route that may be overlooked due to the crappy looking rock and position for the start. P1: Climb up the face/corner to reach the roof. Traverse out left 10 Ft.(crux) to reach a shallow right facing corner and then up to the shuts. P2: Climb past several small overhangs and pass the traverse on Ecstasy to large right facing corner. P3. Follow to the top. This is a great route, and P1 can be done and you can easily lower from the shuts. Stays relatively dry in a light rain.
Start 15 Ft. left of Muscle Beach start just left of the right facing corner.
Standard rack. Some smaller cams are nice for the traverse under the roof on P1.
The awesome first pitch
|By Timothy Beecher|
From: College Park
Sep 17, 2012
I would recommend double ropes on this route to reduce rope drag. Very fun climb!
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I've led the first pitch twice, now, and thought the crux (the traverse through the roof) was hard to protect well both times - I had gear in, but didn't like the idea of falling on it. The rest of the climb is 5.fun, with the stoutest climbing (that I found) coming 2/3 of the way up the second pitch right after the Ecstasy traverse. With a 70m rope, you can run the second pitch all the way to the top. A great line! Two ropes definitely makes it easier.