Six Star Crack 5.13-
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13- [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Brad G on Dec 7, 2009 |
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Dustin on the Six Star Crack
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Description This route is Amazing! The Second pitch is maybe one of the finest splitters at Indian Creek. 100 feet of full value crack climbing.
P.1 Climb the broken crack system that leads up to a face protected by a few bolts. Pull the roof and belay at the bolts below the amazing splitter. 5.12-
P.2 The Crack starts with ratally fingers then finger stacks then 70 feet of super tight hands then back to finger stacks then five feet of rattaly fingers again to the bolts at the sloppy ledge. PUMPY!!!
This route will feel much harder for those with bigger hands.
Location The obvious splitter 120 feet of the ground. You cant miss it.
Protection .3 to 3 camolot
four .5's, six .75's, seven 1's
Dustin on the Six Star Crack
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Scott on the Six Star Crack
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The Six Star Crack
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Dustin falls on the Six Star Crack
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Dustin on the Six Star Crack
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Scott on the Six Star Crack
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| Comments on Six Star Crack |
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By Scott Bennett
From: Colorado, etc
Dec 8, 2009
rating: 5.13-
| Yeah Brad, thanks for added this, we'll all have to get back out there in the spring and send this beast.
A few extra comments:
-I think the FA was Steve Hong, based on the SH stamped bolts at the belays. Anyone know the full FA team?
-The first 40' or so of the first pitch are loose and pretty much unprotected; easy (5.9ish), but don't blow it. After that, the first pitch was pretty fun, with some interesting steep face climbing at the crux.
-You can rap the first pitch (as well as the 2nd) with a 70m. No need to bring two ropes up there, unless you want some rad photos (thanks Brad!)
-Brad placed a bunch of red camalots on the 2nd pitch, but they were all very tight. I used more green camalots, a bit tipped out but easier to place. #2 friends (or red link cams) are great.
-Scott |
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Dec 8, 2009
| In Nov 09, there was a rats nest of crispy faded slings up there. If you plan on heading up, think about replacing the old webbing with some chains or rings.
m |
By chris Kalous
Feb 29, 2012
| Feb 2012. I replaced the tat with chains and added a 1/2" by 6" (yeah, buddy- 6"!) bolt to each anchor on 6 Star. Left the Hong bolts for posterity. |
By chris Kalous
Feb 29, 2012
| BTW Brad, what did you guys do up there to make that ledge so "sloppy"? |
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