|511 page views|
Start on the large ledge about 10 feet to the left of the Under the Milky Way arete. Climb up and right aiming for the first bolt. From here either climb straight up or head out to the right a bit and traverse back left using very small but positive crimps, aiming for a nice horizontal in the middle of the face. Continue to climb straight up to reach the last bolt using very positive holds, thin and technical but much easier than the previous terrain. Approaching the last bolt starts to get harder again. Very positive small holds, tricky footwork. After clipping the last bolt, the climb is not over, the holds are no longer positive and the shuts are very difficult to clip unless you climb all the way up to grab the ledge above them. If you clip the shuts with draws already hung, it is much easier and it eliminates a difficult move (possibly the crux).
Bolted line on clean white face just to the left of the Under the Milky Way arete.
6 bolts, shuts.
|By Sam Stephens|
Sep 11, 2013
The move to the top is definitely tough, but the placemen of the new anchors in relation to the original anchors (6" lower) makes me believe that if you can clip them from there, then do it.