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Storm Mountain Island
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Six Appeal 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Vicki and Brian Smoot
Page Views: 3,695
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Sep 29, 2001  with updates from Chris5

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Leading Six Appeal

Description 

This fun sport route is just to the right of Goodro's Wall. From the Storm Mountain parking lot, cross the bridge and turn left. At the Y in the trail, branch right and then take one of the dirt paths up the slope from the first picnic table. You will need to scramble up a short 4th class gully to the belay ledge. WARNING: Be sure you can climb or lower off this gully before going up, it can get kind of sketchy coming back down. It's a bit easier if you go left.

For the climb, follow seven bolts to the anchors up the face to the right (the wall is east facing). Plenty of foot and hand holds but seems pretty challanging for 5.6. This spot queues up quickly on the weekend so get there early. Shaded most of the day.


Protection 

Route consists of 7 bolts and two chains for an anchor. Anchor is placed above a small ledge. Route is approximately 80 feet from belay point to anchor. Please use your own lockers or QDs for the top anchor and rap down at the end to reduce wear on the chains. Bring a few medium to small cams to set up a belay anchor.



Photos of Six Appeal Slideshow Add Photo
red's approach, green is the climb.
BETA PHOTO: red's approach, green is the climb.
Jon climbing the glass face in December
Jon climbing the glass face in December
taken from the top just after cleaning the anchors
taken from the top just after cleaning the anchors
About half way up
About half way up
Comments on Six Appeal Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 11, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 9, 2004

I would stick-clipped the second bolt. The holds (especially on the first 3 bolts) are a bit greasy for 5.6. Top half of the route is easier and juggier.

By Lee Gitlin
May 25, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

It seems odd to say about a 5.6 route, but this one is hard for the grade, especially the first 3 bolts. A 5.7 rating seems inappropriate, however; the distance between bolts, and some of the cruxes lead me to suggest other 5.6's as a first lead (Italian Arete, with its more positive holds, comes to mind). Six Appeal is is a great route to practice your footwork, as you should only need hands for balance most of the way. Stay honest by avoiding the flake at left, and resist the urge to stem off Goodro's Wall. Work your feet and you should never have to make any big reaches.

By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
Apr 26, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Nice route to check out Goodro's from and for something to shoot for in the future. Good climb there is a little bit of a climb up but nothing to crazy.

By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 13, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If this is your first lead I'd go to six pents or whatever the one is around the corner, this one has some tricky balancing non positive sloper moves with a bit of run out that could scar a beginning leader. I'd say the bottom is a littler harder than 5.6 but? maybe I'm just not very good at slopers.

By Adam Fisher
From: sandy, utah
Apr 25, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

another great 5.6 for noobies, and new leaders

By Skyler Penrod
Jul 22, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

It looked to me like those bolts where old 1/4 inchers for the most part. Are they...and if so should they be replaced? I know it is only 5.6, but if a new leader fell between bolts it could generate quite the fall. Fun route though, highly recommend it.

By Brian in SLC
Jul 22, 2008

I don't think any of the bolts are 1/4". The first one is either a button head, or, a Rawl 5 piece (can't tell from my picture). At least 5/16" or 3/8". And, the route isn't that old. My bet is that they're still bomber.

Rest of the bolts look like studs?

Might not be too hard to replace the first one, though. Maybe Mike White can take a gander at it?

By mikewhite
Jul 22, 2008

I remember all of them being good bolts but I will check it out.

By tenesmus
Jul 22, 2008

those were bomber this spring.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Thin and stiff for 5.6 compared to the other ones in the area. Great route to teach beginners how to trust their feet after a few routes on Reservoir Ridge.

By jonclevy
May 1, 2009

28APR09 First lead, loved the route. Sahdy and windy, but a great confidence builder. The climbing in utah in spectacular and user friendly. Reccommend it to all. Higher than I am used to, but alot more fun and satifying.

By Tyson Anderson
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 11, 2009

Here's a story about this route. Back in 2001(?) I was belaying a friend up Goodro's wall when a couple other guys climbed up to the belay ledge to do Six Appeal. I guess one of the guys didn't know how to belay because the other guy said he was going to solo it (with a rope hanging off him) to set up a toprope so his friend could learn to climb. Just as he was stepping off the deck another guy that was waiting for us to finish Goodro's offered him a belay and he accepted. From the get-go you could tell he wasn't a person that should be soloing anything. By the time he finished the route I think he fell two or three times. I remember the guy belaying him just kind of looking back at us with a shocked look on his face.

Lesson: Don't be an overconfident reckless idiot. With that tiny, overcrowded belay ledge he was a danger to more than just himself.

By Brandon Caldwell
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 13, 2009

Good route to take the kids on. nothing too hard and you're rewarded with a good view at the end.

By Michael Buchanan
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A really fun 5.6 slabby bolted route. Chill. Great for noobs.

By spencerparkin
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Lead this climb for the first time yesterday evening. The sun went down on us before we finished up with the climb. Fortunately, we had one head-lamp between us and we had a 70 meter rope. After making sure that the 70 was bisected at the top anchor for Six Appeal, we were able to rappel in the pitch black dark down the 4th class scramble. So I just wanted to share that if you've got a 70, you can rappel instead of down-climb that section. Down-climbing it in the dark would not have been fun, especially since we only had one head-lamp.

In retro-spect, if we had failed to realize that we could rappel it, I suppose I could have belayed my partner down as he wore the head-lamp. (We noticed someone put a bolt at the base of Goodro's Wall, presumably to stabalize a belayer.) Then he could have sent the head-lamp back up on the rope and then I could have down-climbed it. That would have worked too, but we were thrilled that the rope was long enough for the rappel.

Also, the bolts on the climb seemed okay to me, if a bit rusty. None of them were loose, but I'm no real judge of bolts. The top bolts, as I recall, were really good, though the chains seemed a bit rusty.

This climb felt to me like 5.7 because it's way harder than Roll the Bones (5.6) over at the slips, but you're reading the words of a noob here, so...

Oh, one last thing... We noticed a lot of blood stains at the base of Goodro's Wall. What we could only imagine that might have happened there was a sobering reminder of what terrible things could happen as a result of a climbing incident. Chills!!

By Daniel B
Sep 27, 2010

This route made me nervous for a 5.6... Maybe because I hadn't climbed in a month or something, but the first 3 bolts got my attention for sure. Higher up it is super chill. The bolt at the bottom for the belayer made me feel way more secure for the first clips.

By Donovan
From: West Jordan, Utah
Oct 11, 2010

I've felt the same way about this route each time I lead it. The first half of the route is so slick. I've never really looked forward to that lead (we only climb it now to TR Goodro's), but I decided last time it is one of my favorite 5.6's.

By Jordy
May 11, 2013

Seemed a little harder than 5.6 to me. Regardless, I loved the climb. It was fun for the grade.