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 ADVANCED
Penitente - Entrance Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abrazos y Chingazos S 
Alien In My Underpants S 
Apocketlips T 
Art of Suffering T,S 
BBC? S 
Boltergeist S 
Bucket Slave T,S 
Camino De La Sonia T,S 
Captain America S 
Cassandra S 
Color Blind S 
Color of Devotion S 
Colors Of Emotion S 
Dive Right In S 
Dos Hombres S 
Drill Seeker S,TR 
Dynosaur S 
Forbidden Fruits S 
French Lesson S 
Glutton for Punishment S 
Hand Jam Crack T 
Hareless T 
Illegal Alien S 
Iron Cross S 
Laura T 
Loony Toons S 
Lovesnake S 
Mark's Crack T 
May-B-Nueve S 
Mission in the Rain S 
Mission in the Snow S 
Morning Glory S 
Mr. Breeze S 
Mr. Wind S 
Mysterious Redhead S 
Nature Of The Beast, The S 
No Regret S 
OPS S 
Persephone S 
Prick Pocket S 
Que Pasa S 
Queso Cabeza S 
Quetzalcoatl Comes Through S 
Rocket Man S 
Sangrador, The T,S 
Serpent, The S 
Sitting in Limbo S 
Stemoroids S 
Tangerine Dream T,S 
That's the Way S 
To Err Is Human T 
Twist of Fate S 
Twist of Feet S 
Wages of Sin T,S 
What The Hey S 
When the Whip Comes Down S 
Whipping Post S 
Yah-Ta-Hei S 
Unsorted Routes:

Sitting in Limbo 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Dan Michael 1990
Page Views: 2,895
Submitted By: M on May 24, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Matt on TR working for the redpoint, here at the c...

Description 

The routes starts off decently with a semi-lieback and a bit of a reach to the horizontal crack, then hike your feet up on the thin nothingness and get ready for hell, stretch for the mono, crank hard and you might end up at the top, the route gets easier after the crux, only one or two more monos and some fancy footwork and you're at anchors. A very powerful yet elegant route. Try it.

Protection 

A sequential, excellent line up a thin crack system protected by 7 bolts to anchors just left of Cassandra. Currently the canyon's hardest route.


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By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 17, 2006

Well it's all downhill from here.... I finally sent this thing yesterday!

It's an outstanding route. The rock is immaculate and the climbing is very interesting. To say it is technical, is an understatement. I did about 50 moves to get to the 4th bolt which is only about 30 feet up! Remembering it all is a great challenge. Furthermore, it is one of the more sustained routes I've done in the canyon; the redpoint is in doubt until you clip the last bolt. My only complaint is that it is hell on your fingertips!

Polish your footwork, train you mono strength, then give this a run.
By Ian Spencer-Green
Jul 17, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Sitting in Limbo is one awesome technical route. I remember it being certainly one of the most intricate routes I have ever done. As Mike said, it is not over till you clip the anchors. The story of my send was pretty funny. After two days and four or five tries, I finally pulled through the heinous mono-crux, only to find I should of worked the top a little better. As I cranked the upper 5.11 layback moves I was so pumped and afraid of falling (because I'd have to repeat the tweaky bottom again) I started shaking violently. Somehow I held on and pulled through, primarily from the motivation of not having to repeat the bottom section! Great route. I highly recommend it for any climber that is up to the grade! Personally, I didn't think the grade could be harder than 13b.