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Sitting Bull Falls

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Big Horn Wall 
Rose Bud Wall 

Sitting Bull Falls 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,700'
Location: 32.2452, -104.696 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 37,653
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Aug 30, 2006
Forecast:
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Fall colors in nearby (relatively) Dog Canyon, Gua...

Description 

Few crowds and prevelant shade. This area can be super cold in the Winter. Watch for the killer bee hive between the Brit Route and Fire Water. 5$ per car day use fee.


Getting There 

From Carlsbad, 8 miles out of town to the west on 285, take 137 South for about 25-30 miles. Follow the sign to the Sitting Bull Falls area and park. Follow the paved path about 150 yards and take a major right on an unpaved path up to the top of the falls for about 300 yards, up even with the falls, look for small trails to the right over to the climbing area.

ADMIN EDIT:The turn off of 137 for Sitting Bull is not as far as the signs indicate, the turn off is just before MM31 and after MM32 if coming from HWY 285.


Park Conditions 

Lincoln National Forrest Conditions


17 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',5],['5.12',6],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sitting Bull Falls:
Wounded Knee   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Rose Bud Wall
Firewater   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Rose Bud Wall
Smoke Signals   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Big Horn Wall
Sweat Lodge   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Rose Bud Wall
Ghost Dancers   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Big Horn Wall
Counting Coup   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Big Horn Wall
It is not Necessary for Eagles to be Crows   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Big Horn Wall
Tribal War   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Big Horn Wall
Broken Arrows   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   Big Horn Wall
Custer's Last Stand   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Big Horn Wall
Browse More Classics in Sitting Bull Falls

Featured Route For Sitting Bull Falls
Moving into the extended boulder problem crux

Broken Arrows 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : ... : Big Horn Wall
Starts in the middle of the cave (last route on the left side) on obvious chalked slots. Make long moves through good slots and crimps to a good rest. Complete the difficult, technical boulder problem between V4-V5. The crux hold has apparently long since broken making the crux move just out of the rest either a right-handed (very temperature dependent two finger stack in a pocket) or do the move left-handed, grabbing the same hold as a pinch. Clip the chains after navigating through the final s...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Sitting Bull Falls Slideshow Add Photo
View from the picnic area of the Big Horn Wall
View from the picnic area of the Big Horn Wall
Order of Closure
BETA PHOTO: Order of Closure
Approach to Sitting Bull Falls
Approach to Sitting Bull Falls
Map of Closures
BETA PHOTO: Map of Closures
Closing in on the chains of Counting Coup, July 13, 2013
Closing in on the chains of Counting Coup, July 13...
Comments on Sitting Bull Falls Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 24, 2013
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 31, 2010

Could someone please comment on the closures specified in the new photos added above. I have not yet climbed at Sitting Bull so am not familiar with the area. The date of the order says 2002 so this could not be new. I am assuming this does not mean that the standard areas people are currently climbing at are "closed". Either that or it is not enforced since I hear about folks climbing at Sitting bull all the time.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 31, 2010

The current cliffs that are developed for climbing are not within the closure area. The closed area and bolting ban only affects the surrounding undeveloped cliffs. I've been there twice this season and the rangers were friendly and enthusiastic towards climbers.

By Matt Mueller
Jul 6, 2011

Sorry to report that the "Last Chance" fire burned over the Sitting Bull Falls area. So the FS has closed the area until apx 6/12 for regrowth to prevent erosion from hikers and to rebuild burned down structures. My apologies as I'm a firefighter in the Pecos district though I was out of district stopping TX fires durring the incident.

By Chris Archer
Sep 24, 2012

We are thinking about a trip to Sitting Bull and Last Chance. Are both areas open after the fire? Also wondering what the best season is, if you need a high clearance vehicle to access the cliffs, and where the closest place to stay is. Any beta would be most appreciated.

By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Dec 4, 2012

This is an AWESOME little crag. Go there

By Nathan wade
Aug 8, 2013

Are the bees still here? Its been 8 years. I'd like to think they are gone by now.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 8, 2013

unless the fire chased them off I think they are still there, at least as of 2 years ago they were.

By Nathan wade
Aug 13, 2013

I went here this weekend, there was 1 bee but left us alone. I climbed firewater no bees!

By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Sep 24, 2013

The main hive of bees is gone. Fire either destroyed the hive or forced the queen to relocate. So have a go at the Brit route!