Sit on It
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Located in the 'Bob King' sector, Sit on It climbs the seemingly blank face between Beer Crack and Tumbleweed. The face is slightly overhanging for its lower half, changing into a dead vertical face for the remaining half. There is literally only one hold on the route that is not a crimp.
Climb about 2/3 of the face on pins until a vertical crack can be gained. This crack accepts a finger size Alien/TCU.
This route is currently an open project that will likely go at 5.13+ R. Start in the middle of the blank face with hands high on half pad crimps and feet on the small ledge below. Make desperate moves on 1/8th pad dime edges for the first 10 feet until a good incut 1/5th pad crimp offers some reprieve and the entrance the the 5.11+ outro. A yellow or gray Alien can be had about 2/3 of the way up the route, though the climbing above it is extremely moderate.
Between the Beer Crack and Tumbleweed- the obvious blank face.
One finger sized cam 2/3 of the way up the route
Dec 10, 2009
I know the guy who did the first ascent of this on aid. He did it all with pins, no hooks involved. Woody would have called it A4 if it wasn't so short and the last pin wasn't so good. I guess the first pitons he hammered barely held body weight.