|Type:||Sport, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Larry Goldie and Scott Johnston|
|Submitted By:||Skyeler Congdon on Jun 28, 2011|
|Comments on Sisyphus||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Morgans Point, TX
Jul 3, 2013
|Very unstable block directly over the hanging belay at the top of the crux pitch (p7). Do NOT use for hands or feet or you will likely injure your belayer. Adds to difficulty of pitch by at least a couple of letter grades IMHO.|
By Goran Lynch
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 27, 2013
Fun route, and extraordinarily well thought out in terms of bolt positions, anchor locations, etc. Kudos to the FA!
With a 70 and enough draws, you can link pitches 1&2, 4&5, 7&8, 9&10. I think 17 draws is about right (+ whatever you use to anchor).
Rapping with a single was as painless as ~11 raps can be. We stopped at every bolted station we came to, and never needed to even look at the topo. Top to bottom in less than an hour. No need to bother with doubles; they'd add rigmarole and wouldn't really speed things up.
Finally, I saw a rock scar at the beginning of p7 and didn't find anything unstable there. I think the belayer-slayer block is happily gone!
By Chris Mutzel
From: Seattle, Washington
May 28, 2014
Even though it is bolted, this *is* an alpine climb. There is a lot of loose rock at each belay/rappel station. Know how to manage your rope and yourself so you are not knocking off rocks on the parties below.
That being said, pitch 3 might be my favorite 150ft of "alpine sport climbing" anywhere. Super protected 5.10 fun with great exposure. The 11 pitch didn't look too bad, but we bailed due to rock fall. Will do it again when there are fewer parties on the route, probably mid-week.