An enjoyable day with some great pitches on clean rock and a couple throw away pitches on decent rock.
1: 5.7; 6 bolts; 100 ft
2: 5.9; 7 bolts; 100 ft (Easily linked with P1 with a 60)
3: 5.10b; unprotected 4th ramp out right, 10 bolts. 150 ft. Awesome.
4: Easy 5th. Pass a set of chains on the left; 2 bolt; 140 ft.
5: 5.8; 7 bolts; 100 ft
6: 5.11a; 8 bolts. Very thin, well protected crux. 80 ft.
7: 5.10a; 12 bolts; 160 ft.
8: 3rd class ledges.
9: 5.9; 10 bolts; 100 ft
10: 5.6; 7 bolts; 100 ft (link w/9).
Many parties will opt to descend after the 7th pitch as quality deteriorates.
The right (south) side of Goat Wall. Park at the BIG pullout 3 miles past the Mazama Store. Look for a trail just right of the yellow "curved road" sign. Do NOT approach from the Prime Rib trail (thats what we did and it sucked). A 20 minute approach.
Once close to the wall, look for a giant, solitary pine tree, go left up a climbers trail around the toe of a buttress, then back right up a ledgy ramp. Look for a fixed line: this is the key feature for finding the start.
A baker's dozen of draws will do it if trying to link the first two pitches. Bringing extendable draws is advised in dealing with rope drag.
Goran, seconding the crux
From: Seatte, WA
Jul 3, 2013
Very unstable block directly over the hanging belay at the top of the crux pitch (p7). Do NOT use for hands or feet or you will likely injure your belayer. Adds to difficulty of pitch by at least a couple of letter grades IMHO.
|By Goran Lynch|
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 27, 2013
Fun route, and extraordinarily well thought out in terms of bolt positions, anchor locations, etc. Kudos to the FA!
With a 70 and enough draws, you can link pitches 1&2, 4&5, 7&8, 9&10. I think 17 draws is about right (+ whatever you use to anchor).
Rapping with a single was as painless as ~11 raps can be. We stopped at every bolted station we came to, and never needed to even look at the topo. Top to bottom in less than an hour. No need to bother with doubles; they'd add rigmarole and wouldn't really speed things up.
Finally, I saw a rock scar at the beginning of p7 and didn't find anything unstable there. I think the belayer-slayer block is happily gone!
|By Chris Mutzel|
From: Seattle, Washington
May 28, 2014
Even though it is bolted, this *is* an alpine climb. There is a lot of loose rock at each belay/rappel station. Know how to manage your rope and yourself so you are not knocking off rocks on the parties below.
That being said, pitch 3 might be my favorite 150ft of "alpine sport climbing" anywhere. Super protected 5.10 fun with great exposure. The 11 pitch didn't look too bad, but we bailed due to rock fall. Will do it again when there are fewer parties on the route, probably mid-week.