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Zeus
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Northeast Ridge T 
Sisyphus T 

Sisyphus 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: FA-Jimmy Dunn and Doug Snively, 1973. FFA-Jeff Achey and Chip Chace, 1981.
Page Views: 3,333
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Mar 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Seen from top of P2 of Moses

Location 

Start up the obvious dihedral on the left side of the south face.

Description 

Pitch 1-
Climb up broken rock to better rock, stem up corner past 2 drilled pins. Mantle and follow a finger crack to a good belay ledge. There are no anchors on top of pitch 1, Belay takes yellow Aliens (5.11).

Pitch 2-
Lieback strenuous thin crack (5.11) to a short OW/Chimney (5.8). Exit the chimney and traverse up and right to a bolted belay.

Pitch 3-
This is the business pitch. Climb the corner above the belay past a drilled pin, then traverse right on a ledge, to a poorly protected, crux move(solid 5.11). If you fell you would land on the ledge. Once above the crux, climb 5.7 past 2 pins to the summit.

Descent-
Rappel off the Northeast side of the tower. One 200' rappel got us to the ground, but we passed anchors on the way down.

Protection 

set of stoppers
1xblack and blue Aliens
2xgreen Alien
5xyellow Alien
3x.5&.75 Camalot
3x1,2,3 Camalot
1xold 3.5 Camalot


Photos of Sisyphus Slideshow Add Photo
Zeus in evening light.
Zeus in evening light.
Ben Kiessel on pitch one.
Ben Kiessel on pitch one.
Taurus Skibicky (sp?) and Anne Liebold helped me with the Sisyphus beta.
Taurus Skibicky (sp?) and Anne Liebold helped me w...
Exiting the squeeze chimney on pitch two.
Exiting the squeeze chimney on pitch two.

Comments on Sisyphus Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Kiessel
Mar 30, 2007

Check out Brad's website for a trip report and great photos.
piquaclimber.com/past/zeusaphr...
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Apr 8, 2007

I would call this one of the best tower routes I've done. THe climbing is engaging and thought provoking. However, it could be given the R rating in a number of places. If you find the first pitch a bit heady, you might want to bail. It gets more dangerous as you go higher.

We accidently ran the second and third pitches together as I never found the bolted belay mentioned in the description...it's probably my fault as I do this a lot. Anyway, using lots of runners I was able to mitigate the rope drag. I did have to unclip the crux piece at my foot after doing the big move (it's a reach).

The ledge you would hit in the crux is more of a big sloping stance than a square cut ledge. If you jumped out, you might miss it.

The gear list here is perfect, but bring lots of runners.
By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
Apr 23, 2012

There are 2 fixed nuts and a knot (double overhand I reckon) for the first pitch belay although yellow aliens are still a good idea to back these up. gets pretty thin off that belay
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The gear beta is way off when it comes to the #1 through #3 Camalots, you only need one of each no matter what your climbing ability is and the 3.5 isn't needed either. An extra Blue Alien wouldn't be a bad idea though. I also wouldn't give any of the pitches an R rating, especially the 3rd. Finally it is possible to rap off with one rope but I would bring some webbing to back up the anchors.
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
3 hours ago
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R

I'd second everything Steven said regarding gear, but I found the R rating was justified on the final pitch; if you fall doing the crux move you'll most likely hit the ledge, you probably wouldn't be seriously hurt but there you go. For those up to the challenge this is one of the great tower routes in the Moab area!