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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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Joke Crack to Superstone 
Knight's Move 
Laughing at the Moon 
Ministry of Fear 
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Sirens of Titan 
Speakeasy 
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Whiplash 

Sirens of Titan 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Candelaria and Pat Ament
Page Views: 1,461
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Nov 22, 2001
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Zack D on 'Sirens of Titan' - 4/27/07
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start as for Prince of Darkness. This is the right-angling crack on the top buttress of the West Ridge. Scramble up to the base of the crack, place one or two big pieces and pull up into the crack. Follow the crack to the arete and then up to a belay ledge. Be careful setting up the belay as the blocks are big but detached. Walk off towards the gully.


Protection 

Camalots (1, 2, 3, 3.5 and 4) plus a few nuts. Extra #2 and 0.75 Camalots for belay.



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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 21, 2002

Surprising pump for just a 5.9, perhaps better bigger crack technique.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 21, 2002

This diagonal crack is a real arm pump out as footholds are hard to come by. Harder for the leader, too, as they have to stop and fiddle with pro (follower can usually just yank-n-go).

By Sergio P
From: Idaho Springs, CO
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

With a double runner at the far right roof you can link P1 and P2. Easy walk off.

By pfwein
May 18, 2009

If you sprint it, feels pretty easy for grade, if you go slow, you may get torched.