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Orange Crush
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Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 
Orange Sunshine S 
Original Orange Crush, The T 
Peter Pan S 
Predator S 
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Purple Microdot S 
Sir Edmond Drillary S 
Tin Man S 
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Sir Edmond Drillary 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,173
Submitted By: James Otey on May 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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unknown climber pulling the lip of Sir Edmond Dril...

Description 

Residing on the far left of Orange Crush, Sir Edmond Drillary starts on the large boulder left of Orangahang. Stick clip from here, as a fall would certainly not be in your best interest.

Start left of the first bolt, eventually reaching a small roof. Traverse slightly right, skirting the roof. After some pumpy moves on decent holds, you will be able to gain a rest in the corner. From here, the route traverses out left and eventually up were the chains will be waiting for you.

Though the moves can be a little pumpy near the bottom, the route is short and the rests are solid if you can get them just right. Not a classic, but surely worth your time.

Location 

Far left of Orange Crush, starting on the huge boulder above and to the left of Orangahang. Approach from either the main trail at the second parking lot, or head up and right from Bonsai.

Protection 

5 bolts to LO.


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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 15, 2008

this one seems likely to eat your rope... the rope runs right over the edge of the roof... that wouldnt happen if you linked it in to the orangahang finish... if i do the route again i might try that...
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 20, 2011

Good Route, worth doing, can be a great warm up for Orang.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 21, 2011

First ascentionist - Sir Ed Esmond, August 1998

This route seems to be getting much better with traffic. When he first put it up, it was " Ooh, ow, ow, how, wow, ow "
By Lundy Bancroft
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I'm not sure what you mean about "skirting the roof". After clipping the bolt in the roof, you traverse under the roof for just a few moves until the little notch, and that's where you pull it. If you move too far right before pulling the roof, you'll find that once you're up and over it the next bolt is too far to your left (this happened to a friend of mine). This is a very cool climb by the way, underrated.