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Sir Clipalot 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 240'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers & Mark Colby (1993)
Season: Shade After 12 Noon
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Aug 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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In the midst of pitch 3. This might be an anti-be...

Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Three pitches; three headwalls; three stars in the guidebook.

Pitch 1 (5.10c): Balance up two bolts of slab to easier climbing. The third bolt is 30ft up at the headwall. Decipher getting vertical and ascend to the anchors of the first pitch.

Pitch 2 (5.10a): A challenging finger lock leads to milder, left trending terrain. Ascend a rounded arete while enjoying the scenery.

Pitch 3 (5.11b): Walk for twenty feet while heading for a dead vertical orange wall on the right. The belay could optionally be moved here. The last 60 feet are absolutely incredible: beautiful moves on gorgeous rock with great exposure. The crux is both awesome and challenging.

While this route is fantastic, it is not classic due to its inconsistency. Each pitch has both beautiful climbing and a rather dull section. That said if you climb the grade you should get on it.

Location 

Sir Clipalot is the first bolted line past the Orifice on the east face (left side) of the Fortress.

To reach the route hike to the Fortress and drop down to the left using the climber's trail. Most climbers stash unnecessary gear prior to dropping down. This is where you will walk off.

Protection 

This is a well bolted sport route with chain anchors. A dozen quickraws and personal anchors is sufficient. Each pitch has a runout section on significantly easier terrain.

Walk off the formation via the standard trail, which is described elsewhere. This involves a few moves of easy fifth class.

The route is a pretty straight shot and could potentially be rappelled should a monsoon storm be encountered.


Photos of Sir Clipalot Slideshow Add Photo
Clifford Rylands and John Hinrichsen finishing pitch 2. <br /> <br />Photo by Peter Piek.
Clifford Rylands and John Hinrichsen finishing pit...

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