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This route starts with the beginning of Just Say No 5.9-. Clip the first bolt on that route and head right. Calderone's guidebook shows 3 bolts on the lower face. I only remember clipping 2 bolts. You are looking at a 40 foot gound fall before the 2nd bolt. Maybe I missed a bolt.
The run out climbing is on positive holds, stay strong. The upper roof is staight forward and gear is had after pulling the roof. Load up on gear and run it out another 30ft to the anchor.
A good runout test piece for the moderate leader.
Draws, nuts (big ones), and medium cams
If you want to bring a light rack, I placed a 0.75 C4 and a yellow alien at the roof, and a couple of med-lg nuts.
Jan 23, 2006
Keep your mind open to the possibilities of slinging "horns."
|By Brian in SLC|
Jun 6, 2006
Runout to the first bolt. One of the best routes at its grade in the City, IMHO. If you wanted pro, you could lead to the first bolt or three on Just Say No, then come down, and climb up to the first bolt on the route with another lead rope. Four stars.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c X
Straightforward climbing, on positive holds.
|By Dustin B|
Jan 16, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
grooming in my backyard....
From: Alpine, Utah
Nov 23, 2011
One of the best routes at COR. Never a line!
And, if you clip any of the bolts on Just Say No, you're off route and doing a different climb called; Just Say No To Sinsemilla!