Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Frisky Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Borg, The S 
Orb, The S 
Rumors of Glory S 
Sin Gaz S 
Sinopia S 
Van Damage S 

Sinopia 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Peter Beal
Page Views: 2,964
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Sep 8, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ted Lanzano on Sinopia.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sinopia is the second route from the left. This route looks Waaay easier than it is. Stick clip the first bolt, because it looks 5.7...but it's not. Climb past three bolts including the first up a corner which deposits you on a ledge. Sit, lay down, have lunch, whatever, but rest before tackling the headwall. Clip two bolts off the ledge and tackle the first crux. Either a big throw if your tall or pimpin' small grips if not. Shake out and head left to the next crux, technical climbing brings you to the lip and final clip. Don't fall here. There is a kind of a funky last move getting established on the slab. A good route.

Protection 

8-9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Sinopia Slideshow Add Photo
Bruce Miller on the Orb, Frisky Cliff, photo: Bob ...
Bruce Miller on the Orb, Frisky Cliff, photo: Bob ...
Ted cruising the second crux on sinopia. Photo by ...
Ted cruising the second crux on sinopia. Photo by ...
May '09.
May '09.
Exiting the 2nd crux.
Exiting the 2nd crux.

Comments on Sinopia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alan Higham
May 2, 2008

I had left draws and a cam on Sinopia at the end of December '07, I noticed recently that they are gone and different draws in place. If anyone has my gear, I would love to get it back.
Cheers
By Mark Rolofson
Jan 11, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Great route for a summer morning. The trick for me was figuring out the move off the sloping shelf past the 5th bolt. There are several ways to do this lunge move, but only one worked for me. A second crux past 6th bolt was powerful but more obvious. Still more 5.12 above. This climb has a total of four 5.12 section in a row. The 5.11d dihedral start can feel pretty burly too.
By Kelly P
From: The Bubble, CO
Mar 31, 2012

We were up here today...anyone know what the thin recently bolted face start to the immediate left of the Sinopia start is? It is quite thin, sharp and devious....
By Eric Carlos
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2012

There is also a line that shares the first crux and then, from the jug, goes right through another crux and up to the slab.
By Ben Collett
Sep 20, 2012

That is Sin Gaz. 12c-ish? Kind of fun but not as good as Sinopia.
By Pinklebear
Sep 20, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

And the direct left start on the Z-seams would be "Con Gaz," or at least that's what we were calling it, but we never could do it. V-double-digit something or other, open project, start with the first bolt stick-clipped, have at it, don't trash your right shoulder....
By ChanVan
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I agree that it is definitely harder than it looks, but still not 13a. Fun route, though.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Sep 20, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This is an interesting route with varied climbing. It starts with a short, straightforward, 11c/d dihedral to a bivy ledge, followed by two short boulder problems (V6 to a V5) split by a jug, and then a 11b dihedral to the anchors. It's not over until you gain the slab. I'm giving this route 3 stars for the quality of climbing overall.

Props to anyone so strong that this feels like 12c. Climbers at their limit in this grade will likely be disappointed if they get on this rig thinking that it's 12c. It definitely feels as hard as most other established 13a routes that I've done.

Btw, the 7th bolt (the first one in the upper dihedral after the boulder-problem traverse) was a spinner. I tightened it with an adjustable wrench, although I recommend keeping an eye on it.