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> 2. Loggerhead Buttress
Sink Like A Stone
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Jeff Schoen 1993 |
Page Views: | 987 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Bryan G on May 8, 2011 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is a fun and varied climb that goes from slab to overhang. There is a bit of grit in some spots due to a lack of ascents, but it should clean up nicely with more traffic. It also currently has a single anchor bolt with a carabiner to lower off of.
At the toe of the buttress, just to the right of Orange Juice Avenue is a prominent arching roof. There is a crack/seam in the center of this roof and Sink Like A Stone follows the bolted line straight up to this point.
The bottom third of the route is an 11b/c slab on darker rock. The middle third transitions onto the gold headwall and is defined by a pair of zig-zagging hand traverses and mantles. Shake out before launching into the final section of the route - a gently overhanging crack and face. A piece (around 1-2") is useful for plugging in the crack between two of the bolts. Fight the pump to the single bolt anchor.
At the toe of the buttress, just to the right of Orange Juice Avenue is a prominent arching roof. There is a crack/seam in the center of this roof and Sink Like A Stone follows the bolted line straight up to this point.
The bottom third of the route is an 11b/c slab on darker rock. The middle third transitions onto the gold headwall and is defined by a pair of zig-zagging hand traverses and mantles. Shake out before launching into the final section of the route - a gently overhanging crack and face. A piece (around 1-2") is useful for plugging in the crack between two of the bolts. Fight the pump to the single bolt anchor.
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