|The Melting Mud Wall
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Park your car off of the main canyon road.
Description (2 or 3 in this one)
Sinistar is one of the older HelmetGate lines and departs a bit from the sanitized feel you get after a too many line on Melting Mud. Expect a bit of gnar, a (fair) bit of sand, big moves, ugly old bolts and an assload of fun and pump on this one.
The black rock at the bottom is Devils Castle-ish, the white rounded choss in the middle is reminescent of Ibex's eroded caves, and the headwall feels like typical pockety helmetgate.
The start is a bit in your face and the hardest moves on the route might be right off the ground (they won't feel bad at all when fresh). Clip the ancient bolt and make your way through blocky sidepulls and a few long moves until your reach the chossier rock/chossiest rock divide below the start of the overhanging section.
Catch a rest, ask for the protection of whatever deity you believe in and fire up the roof using jugs that have been defying erosion and gravity for way too long.
You might want to thread the 2nd bolt in the white section with a runner instead of clipping it, it's resting in a recess and would take a lot of torque if you fell on it...
Shuffle up and slightly right through a pumpy section of pancake pinching and sidepulls until you cross the ill-defined chossiest rock/chossy rock boundary and re-enter helmetgate style climbing. Brush an unbelievable amount of sand from your hands, shoes and eyes, start breathing again and motor up the pocketed headwall to the longest set of chains you'll ever see (longer that Sasquatch. For real).
Lower and proceed to dodge the sand avalanches the next climber will be sending your way if you're belaying - while trying not to fall of the slowly decomposing belay stance.
Did I mention this one is really good? GO DO IT.
Sinistar sits West of the pillar that marks the left end of the Melting Mud Wall. Approach as for Melting Mud, skip the last switchback and head West to a giant alcove featuring 3 layers of rock: compact black, sandy rounded white and brittle looking gray. Kinda like a layered cake. One that tastes like sand and choss.
Scramble up into the alcove looking for an old trinket bolt at the base of a steep blocky section of black rock. Look up and be scared. You should see another bolted line to your right. If you don't, you're about to get spanked on Septic Death.
13 bolts to chains.
60 m rope only and you won't have much to spare.
this one definitely was solid 5.11!
steep, long, ...
another look at the 5.11 that travels through the ...
Emily on Sinistar
Jul 17, 2009
greg's description seemed a little more complete.
Aug 13, 2009
could be my favorite line on hellgate.
liked the sandy stone layer - and its bolt that is starting to erode off the rock.
Its the shittiest, scariest, BEST climbing i"ve done outside of the desert. Must do!!
Sep 19, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
This is a really, really fun line. Pretty sustained and long, but with adequate rests. Better than Martinez Mind Melter, it's a steep jug haul through the roofs.
We did this with a 60m and it was just barely long enough w/ rope stretch. I'm not especially fat either.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Apr 11, 2012
Super good. I thought the first bolt was bomber. Rust means its solidified nicely into the rock. Which sandy pocket should I grab?
|By Sam Miller|
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 11, 2012