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Lei Pi Shan
Routes Sorted
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Crash and Burn S 
Honky tonk S 
Jeja S 
Lightning S 
Name?  S 
One Love S 
Power Of One, The S 
Singularity S 
Thunder S 
Waiting for Sophy S 
Unsorted Routes:

Singularity 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Joe Picalli, Oct 2006
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Dec 27, 2010

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Description 

One of several uber-classics at Lei Pi Shan, Singularity is fun climbing literally from the first bolt to the last. It has more or less 2 distinct sections: fun, technical face climbing up to the base of a long tufas, which are then climbed up to the anchors. The route is listed at 7a+ (12a) in the guide, but a somewhat key bolt clipping hold has since broken, and it is likely at 12b now. The crux may well be one of the clips, though the move past this bolt isn't easy regardless. Keep your head through the tufa section -- though easier, the distance between the bolts feels long and the pump begins to take its toll. Even turning the final last couple moves before the anchor can feel exhilarating.

This route is undoubtedly one the best at its grade in Yangshuo.

Location 

Right of center on the main wall at Lei Pi, Singularity is located a couple routes right of the uber-classic Single Life (~13b/c). Look for the prominent black streak and long-tailed, "ice cream cone" tufa which forms the upper section.

Protection 

Bolts to a 2 bolt-fixed anchor.


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