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Single pitch C2 in the White Mountains

Original Post
Taylor Jenkins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0

I'm going to be in the Whites for the next 10 days mostly doing some backpacking but I'd like to get in some aid climbing, too. I'm hoping for something single pitch C2 since I probably won't have the time to commit to a long multi pitch route. I'll also be with my wife and another friend; they are both climbers but not into aid so it would be great if we could go to the same crag and they could have some easy to moderate stuff to top rope while I do some solo aiding.

Does anything meet that description? I've got the Ed Webster guide so feel free to reference it if necessary.

mitchy B · · nunya gotdamn business. · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 0

Check out NEclimbs, you might get better results over there.

Taylor Jenkins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0

Thanks, I'll take a look.

nhclimber · · Newmarket, NH · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,355

Hey Taylor, If you're looking to hit a classic clean single pitch aid route the first pitch or first and second of Mordor is about as good as it gets. Best single aid pitch on the cliff (that I have done) is reincarnation. This pitch has been freed (once) so tread lightly and there now bolts through the crux heading/nailing seem (part of FFA) but the pitch will still feel A3-A3+. Also, for low commitment but hardish clean aid you can do Molson's madness clean (c2+f or c3 if you don't use the 2 pins at the end). You can also climb it clean and not use the bolts on it. First pitch of forest of Fanghorn to the midway sport anchor also can go clean, but heads up getting off the ground (splat factor). Actually, 1st pitch of pinsnatcher can also go clean with hand placed beaks and has one head fixed (i placed it a while ago disclaimer)

Have fun and email me with any questions.

cjdrover · · Watertown, MA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 355
Taylor Jenkins wrote:I've got the Ed Webster guide so feel free to reference it if necessary.
Check the back. He has a listing of free routes that make good clean aid routes.
Taylor Jenkins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0

I just got home. Based on the advice from NHClimber, advice from an I.M.E. employee, and perusal of the the guidebook I decided to do the first pitch of the Mordor Wall (after first getting in some practice on Recluse at the north end). It was my first C2 ever and I'm proud to say I did it. I was looking for something to push my limits a bit and it certainly fit the bill. I did my first hook move, encountered my first rivet, my first bit of expando crack, and my first mandatory top stepping to clip that bolt at the top of the corner. What a climb! I can't wait to go back.

Thanks, everyone!

patrick donahue · · Bend, OR · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 493

you can get on the first pitch of the mordor wall or you can do the first 3 pitches of the prow and only need one rope to lower.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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