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Single Pitch at Seneca

Original Post
Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

I'm looking for opinions on good single-pitch climbs in the 5.7-5.11 range at Seneca. One of our party isn't comfortable with doing multi-pitch yet, so I'm looking for options. Thanks!

Derrick W · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 868

Now is as good a time as any to learn.

GonnaBe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 135

I think what you're looking for is the Lower Slabs area.

Rogerlarock Mix · · Nedsterdam, Colorado · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 5

Yeah, Lower slabs are good for a half day. Especially if you sack up and lead Autumn Fire...

I second Derrik W: No time like the present time and Seneca is a great place to learn multi-pitch.

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

South end: candy corner 5.5, ye gods 5.8.
Souther pillar: has a handful 1 is climbin punishment (mega classic), its single pitch if you link the first 2 pitches and don't climb the 3rd (commonly done).
Seneca daze on south peaks west face is 5.7, bolted. There are others say like a 5.8 splitter hands (lichen or leave it I think...) on north peaks west face. There are plenty if you do your due dilligence.

Enjoy! Ill be there this weekend.

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

I love seneca so much you've got me thinking: you can also lead p1 of the burn 5.8 and set up a top rope on sunshine 5.10 (you can of course lead sunshine but you'll most likely want to protect the lower 25-30ft so you'll need brass or equal micro nuts). Or lead p1 of ecstasy jr 5.4 and set up on the burn or sunshine. That's an option that'll keep you busy.

Also scramble up p1 of old mans (easily soloed so your non multipitch person shouldn't be freaked) and do west pole in one pitch or conns west. Its "multipitch" but not really since p1 of old mans is like 5.0 or something.

Plenty more options also...

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

Dude! Triple s 5.8. Super duper mega classic! 1 pitch 90ft. South peak, west face next to neckpress and le gourmet, etc. At the base of face of 1000 pitons

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

Thanks for the help! Stoned Master, our plans are for next weekend, but if I'm there this weekend I'll get in touch with you. Where do you usually camp?

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

I camp at Yokums directly behind (direct in front of the seneca formation) tom cecils guide shop (that never used climbing wall).

Gif Zafred · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5

I think Humphrey's Head is single pitch and provides a good setting.

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

Castor, Pollux

Derrick W · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 868

Spock's Brain...The only gear you need is 2 sets of nuts, a set of brassies, and a .75 camalot for the pod at the top.

Jonathan Dull · · Boone, NC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 415

Scuttle at the far left end of the lower slabs cliff is a great crack. Easy to set up a toprope but way more fun to lead. This was my favorite single-pitch at Seneca, I also only climbed there for two days so I'm sure these other guys have better beta, however, it's totally worth a visit to the lower slabs area regardless.

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

Awesome. I really appreciate all the great suggestions. I was thinking it might be a good day to start at north peak east face, then follow the sun around to lower slabs. If anyone has any favorites on NE, post 'em up! Many thanks!

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Doug S wrote:Awesome. I really appreciate all the great suggestions. I was thinking it might be a good day to start at north peak east face, then follow the sun around to lower slabs. If anyone has any favorites on NE, post 'em up! Many thanks!
Do realize that this plan will potentially involve a somewhat heinous amount of hiking. There are probably more efficient ways to spend a day up there.
Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55
JCM wrote: Do realize that this plan will potentially involve a somewhat heinous amount of hiking. There are probably more efficient ways to spend a day up there.
True. I was thinking of using the main park trail to North Peak and returning the same way.

I'm ruling out South Peak East Face for single pitch, so I'm also ruling out that approach. So if I'm doing the Lower Slabs at all, the west face trail is also ruled out as heinous.

If I'm overlooking something... climb through gunsight? Just skip North peak east?
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Doug S wrote: True. I was thinking of using the main park trail to North Peak and returning the same way. I'm ruling out South Peak East Face for single pitch, so I'm also ruling out that approach. So if I'm doing the Lower Slabs at all, the west face trail is also ruled out as heinous. If I'm overlooking something... climb through gunsight? Just skip North peak east?
Yeah, hiking up to N peak E face and then all the way around to the slabs would be bad

I'd say skip slabs, skip N Peak E Face. The best climbing is on the South Peak, West Face; there is plenty of cragging there to occupy a day. Good one pitch, craggable (bolts or trees to place a TR anchor from and then later rap) routes on S Peak W face include:

The Burn (5.8)
Sunshine (5.10 pg/r-ish; TRable from The Burn or EJ)
Marshall's Madness P1 (5.9 crack, good pro)
Triple S (5.8+, must do)
Cottonmouth (5.10)
Sidewinder P1 (5.11a)
Banana (5.6)
Easy stuff on Humphrey's Head
And various others...

All of these are highly reccomended cragging routes. Also, S Peak West face would be easy (not too much extra walking) to link up with South End routes like Ye Gods, Candy Corner, and Drop Zone.

Lastly, you should also consider a day at the Southern Pillar. It is kind of a forgotten gem of Seneca climbing. Gets ignored since the good routes are mostly only 1 pitch...but that is what you want. Great 1-pitch routes with bolted anchors, in the 5.8 to 5.11 range. Daytripper, Block Party, Ambush, Right tope, etc. are all good. Short/easy hike.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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