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Single Pitch at Seneca
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By Doug S
Apr 22, 2013
Edge of Time <br />
I'm looking for opinions on good single-pitch climbs in the 5.7-5.11 range at Seneca. One of our party isn't comfortable with doing multi-pitch yet, so I'm looking for options. Thanks!

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By Derrick W
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 22, 2013
Now is as good a time as any to learn.

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By Wannabe
Apr 22, 2013
I think what you're looking for is the Lower Slabs area.

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By Rick Mix
From Nederland, Colorado
Apr 22, 2013
Yeah, Lower slabs are good for a half day. Especially if you sack up and lead Autumn Fire...

I second Derrik W: No time like the present time and Seneca is a great place to learn multi-pitch.

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Apr 23, 2013
Day Lily.
South end: candy corner 5.5, ye gods 5.8.
Souther pillar: has a handful 1 is climbin punishment (mega classic), its single pitch if you link the first 2 pitches and don't climb the 3rd (commonly done).
Seneca daze on south peaks west face is 5.7, bolted. There are others say like a 5.8 splitter hands (lichen or leave it I think...) on north peaks west face. There are plenty if you do your due dilligence.

Enjoy! Ill be there this weekend.

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Apr 23, 2013
Day Lily.
I love seneca so much you've got me thinking: you can also lead p1 of the burn 5.8 and set up a top rope on sunshine 5.10 (you can of course lead sunshine but you'll most likely want to protect the lower 25-30ft so you'll need brass or equal micro nuts). Or lead p1 of ecstasy jr 5.4 and set up on the burn or sunshine. That's an option that'll keep you busy.

Also scramble up p1 of old mans (easily soloed so your non multipitch person shouldn't be freaked) and do west pole in one pitch or conns west. Its "multipitch" but not really since p1 of old mans is like 5.0 or something.

Plenty more options also...

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Apr 23, 2013
Day Lily.
Dude! Triple s 5.8. Super duper mega classic! 1 pitch 90ft. South peak, west face next to neckpress and le gourmet, etc. At the base of face of 1000 pitons

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By Doug S
Apr 23, 2013
Edge of Time <br />
Thanks for the help! Stoned Master, our plans are for next weekend, but if I'm there this weekend I'll get in touch with you. Where do you usually camp?

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Apr 23, 2013
Day Lily.
I camp at Yokums directly behind (direct in front of the seneca formation) tom cecils guide shop (that never used climbing wall).

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By Gif Zafred
From Pittsburgh, PA
Apr 23, 2013
Gif on Bimbo Shrine, Kaymoor
I think Humphrey's Head is single pitch and provides a good setting.

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By Steve Williams
From Denver, CO
Apr 23, 2013
Castor, Pollux

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By Derrick W
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 23, 2013
Spock's Brain...The only gear you need is 2 sets of nuts, a set of brassies, and a .75 camalot for the pod at the top.

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By Jonathan Dull
From Boone, NC
Apr 24, 2013
Edge of a Dream
Scuttle at the far left end of the lower slabs cliff is a great crack. Easy to set up a toprope but way more fun to lead. This was my favorite single-pitch at Seneca, I also only climbed there for two days so I'm sure these other guys have better beta, however, it's totally worth a visit to the lower slabs area regardless.

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By Doug S
Apr 24, 2013
Edge of Time <br />
Awesome. I really appreciate all the great suggestions. I was thinking it might be a good day to start at north peak east face, then follow the sun around to lower slabs. If anyone has any favorites on NE, post 'em up! Many thanks!

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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Apr 24, 2013
Doug S wrote:
Awesome. I really appreciate all the great suggestions. I was thinking it might be a good day to start at north peak east face, then follow the sun around to lower slabs. If anyone has any favorites on NE, post 'em up! Many thanks!


Do realize that this plan will potentially involve a somewhat heinous amount of hiking. There are probably more efficient ways to spend a day up there.

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By Doug S
Apr 24, 2013
Edge of Time <br />
JCM wrote:
Do realize that this plan will potentially involve a somewhat heinous amount of hiking. There are probably more efficient ways to spend a day up there.


True. I was thinking of using the main park trail to North Peak and returning the same way.

I'm ruling out South Peak East Face for single pitch, so I'm also ruling out that approach. So if I'm doing the Lower Slabs at all, the west face trail is also ruled out as heinous.

If I'm overlooking something... climb through gunsight? Just skip North peak east?

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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Apr 24, 2013
Doug S wrote:
True. I was thinking of using the main park trail to North Peak and returning the same way. I'm ruling out South Peak East Face for single pitch, so I'm also ruling out that approach. So if I'm doing the Lower Slabs at all, the west face trail is also ruled out as heinous. If I'm overlooking something... climb through gunsight? Just skip North peak east?


Yeah, hiking up to N peak E face and then all the way around to the slabs would be bad

I'd say skip slabs, skip N Peak E Face. The best climbing is on the South Peak, West Face; there is plenty of cragging there to occupy a day. Good one pitch, craggable (bolts or trees to place a TR anchor from and then later rap) routes on S Peak W face include:

The Burn (5.8)
Sunshine (5.10 pg/r-ish; TRable from The Burn or EJ)
Marshall's Madness P1 (5.9 crack, good pro)
Triple S (5.8+, must do)
Cottonmouth (5.10)
Sidewinder P1 (5.11a)
Banana (5.6)
Easy stuff on Humphrey's Head
And various others...

All of these are highly reccomended cragging routes. Also, S Peak West face would be easy (not too much extra walking) to link up with South End routes like Ye Gods, Candy Corner, and Drop Zone.

Lastly, you should also consider a day at the Southern Pillar. It is kind of a forgotten gem of Seneca climbing. Gets ignored since the good routes are mostly only 1 pitch...but that is what you want. Great 1-pitch routes with bolted anchors, in the 5.8 to 5.11 range. Daytripper, Block Party, Ambush, Right tope, etc. are all good. Short/easy hike.

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