Single Lens Reflex
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Photo by Paul Crowder
Wild route! Sustained. Walking right from George's Buttress you pass Mistaken Identity, Stoner's Boner, and then a large rectangular block against the base. Centerpiece climbs the obvious vertical crack system that starts from the right side of this block. A little further is a prominent left facing left leaning corner that starts a ways off the ground. The standard start goes up right then underclingd left and then traverses further left to reach the base of the corner. This is a bit runout, but not too hard. This also leads to rope drag. You might want to back clean the first few pieces after getting good gear in the corner. The direct start is up a thin crack in a slab. Gear looks good but fiddly. I did the standard start.
The corner is awkward and strenuous, but with good gear. Laybacks, jams and stems get you to the top. This was the physical crux for me. Stem right, and you're finally in balance. Step around to the right and climb a fun slab with mostly good footholds and great gear in a right angling crack. There is a runout bit near the top of this slab, not because there is no gear, but because it's hard to stop. Step left at the top of this section to a ledge system. The two chopped bolts will be at head level. You could place gear here and traveser way left on the ledge system (I almost did), but instead continue up the thin crack with funky gear (good at the bottom, shallow TCU, brass nut higher up). At the top I couldn't figure out what to do. It was windy, cold, and I was getting a bit gripped. Downclimbed 3 times, and finally decided to step left to some decent knobs and make a long reach to a good hold. It wasn't that hard (5.8?), but it was the head crux for me.
The belay on the large ledge is funky. You can get a couple of small cams directly above. I hiked left about 20-30 feet and placed a couple of large cams, then hiked back and belayed above the final moves. To get off, traverse left around an exposed corner to easy ground, then scramble down and climber's left to the base of George's Buttress.
Double cams from micro to gold Camalot. Single set nuts from brass to large. Long slings. WARNING: The 2-bolt anchor indicated on the top in Squeezing the Lemmon II is chopped as of this date. That guide also indicates mixed trad/bolts ("[B,G]"), but there are no protection bolts.
Andy on the direct start to SLR.
Christian on the sketchy lieback crux.
Andy working the stem in the dihedral - Photo by J...
Thin gear for direct start
Greg near the top of the left leaning corner.
|Comments on Single Lens Reflex
|By Wes Turner|
Aug 10, 2004
From: maricopa, AZ
Jun 21, 2007
SLR=single lens reflex
photography (35 m)
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2008
The best of the routes I have done on this wall. The chopped bolts were a blessing, I guess, because I just kept going, well above the blue alien in the thin crack and directly up a very thin crack and face with horizontals, continuing up to a very large sloping ledge with trees. The upper section above the missing anchor was the best part!
From the ledge, scramble up and left to a 2-bolt anchor with my cordalette and a biner on it and rap twice from there, the first being back to the top of Mistaken Identity/New Year's Eve, then to the ground. No doubt, someone will take the biner and cord, but it can always be replaced if you get stuck up there... or figure out some other escape.
|By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich|
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Mar 14, 2009
This climb is exciting one to jump on when tired, and at the end of several hard days of climbing. That is to say I had to work and swear a lot harder than anticipated. The climbing is sustained and committing.
When I got to the chopped bolts, I thought hmmm, either these are the anchors described in the book or I have farther to go. Not knowing the answer I continued up. A good 8 feet above my last piece I started to doubt my decision. While balancing on thin holds with no pro available I came to the conclusion that the bolts had been chopped and that I had no idea of what was above me. After a few exciting minutes I decided to down climb. Down climbing was to become the emotional crux of the route. I do not suggest doing this.
Once back at my gear, I built an anchor and walked out left on the ledge. I was curious to know what was on the big ledge above that I hadn't made it to so I scrambled up there. On the ledge I found two threaded bolt inserts and two drilled holes. Unfortunately not a single bolt or hanger was to be found. The gear looked poor, and I had little left to build an anchor. I climbed down and over to the anchors of Stoners Boner and belayed from there.
Lesson learned: Read Mountain Project first
And what's up with all the chopped and missing bolts? Weren't the first set of bolts the conclusion of the original line? And if not, then why are the ones above, where the gear is only so so missing?
|By John Hayes|
From: Bend, OR
Jan 13, 2010
I'll pass on some advice I got from Steve Grossman as I struggled to sew up the big corner the first time I did SLR. The crack was sucking pieces off my rack and I was placing my 6th or 7th nut as Steve soloed up the climb to the left. Hanging from one arm, he looked over and said,"Hey John, I learned when I soloed that climb that it's much easier if you don't have to place pro'. Quit screwing around, just place a few good ones and keep going!" This is a real Tucson classic...have fun with it!
|By Mike Willyoung|
Apr 17, 2010
Oh so good! Climbing past the chopped anchor makes it even better.
|By Clay Mansfield|
Dec 11, 2012
WOW this thing is great! Similar in difficulty to it's neighbor Centerpiece, though more demanding overall in my opinion. The finish is pure fun. At the ledge, a few small pieces can be use as directionals while belaying from the hand-sized crack at the left end of the ledge.
|By Ryan Morse|
May 12, 2013
So it ends at bolts? or are they chopped? If they are chopped you traverse left? or do you continue and higher anchors appear? Or is it a get to the chopped bolts and figure it out on your own deal?
From: Tucson, Az
May 12, 2013
I believe Steve Grossman chopped the anchors that Ben Burnham added without consulting him.
The bolted anchors on Stoner's Boner are quite a ways to the left but could be made to work.
I think I used the same option Clay mentions above.
And then there is the option of climbing another 20-25 feet from the first set of chopped bolts (Stoner's Boner height) of somewhat runout stuff to another ledge higher. This has slightly better placements for an anchor that is directly in line with the rest of the route.
It would be nice to have bolted anchors at the top of this and Centerpiece, but adding them without asking the FA is not the way to go.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
3 days ago
The route is nicely sustained. The bolts are gone but it is an easy traverse due left about 40 feet to another set of chains that you can belay from and then rap off with a 70 meter rope.