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SINGING ROCK SHUTTLE?

Original Post
Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

I was just given a brand new belay device called a Shuttle made by Singing Rock. I already own an ATC by Black Diamond. The shuttle looks a bit different than the ATC (two extra openings molded into the body). From what I can tell from the illustrations is that it can be used almost like an outboard pulley for belaying from above without actually having to be attached to your harness. My question is, what added benefits do I get with the Shuttle as opposed to my ATC? I can't see any that would really facilitate using it over the ATC. Seems if nothing else to only complicate the rope system while in use. As always, any input it greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Ryan Kempf · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 371

You have never heard of belaying in "guide mode" have you?

Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

I haven't. What is it? I'm still a gumby and am trying to learn everything I can. Any insight into this would be appreciated.

TJ Brumme · · Marrakech · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,648

BD's instructional video: vimeo.com/22320202

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

so basically the ATC guide' and other copy devices are just doing what the Petzl Reverso and the B-52 were designed for first. Never caught on that was what the 'guide' name was for on those newer designs. Just stuck with my gen.1 reverso when needed to go that way.

TJ Brumme · · Marrakech · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,648

Yes, the Shuttle, ATC-guide, reverso, and b-52 (any many more) all perform essentially the same function.

I'd recommend retiring that gen 1 petzl reverso. Those were notorius for getting sharp edges after extended use (sharp to the point that ropes have been cut using them).

Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

So guys, if I understand this right, the main benefit over my standard ATC and Grigri 2 is that I can belay my buddy who is following me without having to be attached to the device myself. This in turn takes some of the load and awkwardness (well awkward for a gumby at least) out of belaying from above? As always, thanks for the insight on the matter.

cnadel · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 5

belaying the follower off the anchor in guide mode also creates an auto-locking belay. essentially all the leader is doing is pulling up the slack.

Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

That makes sense with the auto-locking feature. I imagine it makes it nice to have a little bit of an added in buffer. So how many of you guys prefer using a shuttle in guide mode to belay your partner up as opposed to the more traditional way using an ATC or GriGri? Do you ever find the need to pack both and switch it up a bit. This is assuming that your climbing multi-pitch routes all day.

Patrick Mulligan · · Reno, NV · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 995

you can actually do the same thing with your GriGri2 and belay with it attached the the anchor. Its a little more difficult to lower a 2nd that way, but its not easy to do that in "guide" mode either. It doesn't just make it less awkward, but if your 2nd falls or needs to hang (to pull gear or something) the devices work in a way that autolocks.

TJ Brumme · · Marrakech · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,648

Really the only time I wouldn't have it in guide mode is when my follower is on a traverse pitch (like Seth mentioned already). The benefit to the guide mode is that you (the belayer) are free from the system. If your follower needs assistance for any reason, you don't need to bother with escaping the belay.

The grigri is honestly much easier to use when belaying your 2nd, but I rarely use it because of the extra weight (still need an atc to rappel) and I often use 2 ropes for 2 followers (can't belay 2 with 1 grigri).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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