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Singin' in the Rain 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, Vernon Stiefel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: Tony B on May 23, 2005
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Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is a fun route, with a definite crux and some short moderate runouts. It was done on TR to clean it, then lead FFA in the rain, thus the name. This route lies on the roof just off the ground to the right of "Oil Pan Hook Shot." Go up into a steep corner, then through the roof on a 18" section of handcrack and a finger lock out to the left. The crux is 5.10. An 'eliminate' problem avoiding the lefthand side and lefthand finger crack through the roof can also be done and probably comes in at around 5.11-- with the gear being difficult to get before the hard climbing starts.

Once through the roof, pulling the lip on solid incuts, proceed more or less straight up and then slightly left to join the arete, then finish on the arete left at the anchors of the nearby moderate sport climb. There are stopper placements near the top that make clipping the last bolt of the sport route you converge with unnecessary, even in the rain. Top out or clip the anchors of the sport route.

A reasonably fun route with a fun crux -- gymnastic if you eliminate the lefthand wall, but fun either way. Not long or sustained enough to merit more stars.


Protection 

A few nuts and some cams to 3". Aliens are nice for odd shallow cracks.



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