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Sinestra 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Robert Warren
Page Views: 8,433
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 19, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (76)
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Don't sneeze, you might fall off

Description 

This route lies about 100 feet to the left of where the approach trail hits the wall. Look for the obvious pods in the crack, Right Arm which lies just to the right of Sinestra. Starts off a pedestal in a short offwidth. This route is a real journey with sustained hand/wide-hands jamming for a full rope length. Throw in an improbable, intricate face traverse and a finishing body length roof split by a perfect handcrack and you have an ultimate crack line. Don't worry, the face climbing is well protected. You will be loving all the borrowed #3 Camalots in the sustained wide-hands section. I really can't say enough about how awesome this route is. Have fun!

Protection 

Mostly hands and wide hands. There is a 30-foot stretch of wide hands where #3 Camalots work great. I would suggest at least 5 pieces of that size. The rest of the route is mostly great hands so bring at least 8 #2 Camalots or #3 Friends. Make sure you save at least 1 #2 Camalot for the exciting finish. A #4 Camalot is useful to protect the opening moves. Bring a couple smaller pieces but nothing micro.


Photos of Sinestra Slideshow Add Photo
This is the beta when you're 5'7" and have a negative ape index
This is the beta when you're 5'7" and have a negat...
beautiful wide splitter
beautiful wide splitter
Full extension.
BETA PHOTO: Full extension.
Eyeballin' the crack switch on Sinestra.  <br /> <br />Photo: Yoav Altman
Eyeballin' the crack switch on Sinestra.

Photo: ...
floating it
floating it
The final roof, a long way up.
The final roof, a long way up.
Ari on Sinestra
Ari on Sinestra
This reach is spooky on lead when you've never done it before.
This reach is spooky on lead when you've never don...
I'll keep jammin thank you.
I'll keep jammin thank you.

Comments on Sinestra Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 8, 2014
By Andy Johnson
Mar 11, 2003

This is one of the coolest pitches I have ever done. The climbing is not really that hard, it is just very sustained. There are however, some excellent rests. The face traverse really makes this climb a classic. This is a must do. Be sure to put runners on your pieces right before and right after the traverse, otherwise you will have some vicious rope drag by the end.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 4, 2003

I plugged a 5 camalot into the rest stance below the final roof and was able to stack my trail rope on it, thereby reducing drag from hideous to tolerable.Fantastic route!!
By Max Schon
Oct 22, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Superb and pumpy route. I would suggest bringing two #3.5 Camalots, six #3 Camalots or 3.5 Friends, six #2 Camalots, three #1 Camalots or 2.5 friends, and maybe one .75 Camalot or #2 Friend. The slot in the beginning is easily protectable with a #3 camalot. At least three runners and four draws will help alleviate rope drag.
By beerdrinker
From: Moab, Utah
Apr 18, 2005

probably my favorite route at the creek. beautiful and long. the traverse is one of the wildest moves in the creek. so fun.
By Laurent Meillon
From: Golden, CO
Oct 29, 2005

FA: Robert WarrenSinistra, Meat Hooks, and Right Arm were all put up the same day by Warren and Colorado Springs crew. It was the first time they went to the Creek to do anything else than lines to the top, hence the length of these 1-pitch routes - a rope length of the time: 50 m.Needless to say they were psyched to find these 3 killer lines, all within 15 seconds from one another!
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

one of my top five favorites at indian creek, at least.
By Vince MacMillan
From: Dolores, CO
Aug 7, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Absolutely Freakin' Stupendous Route! One note however: When following my pard's outstanding lead effort I got to the section before the final roof and shoved a thin hand jam in just below a well placed #7 Hex. As I wrenched down with my thumb I noticed with mild horror that the seemingly solid crack expanded and the piece slid out all on its own. That entire 8-10 foot section beneath that amazing roof finish is, somehow, an "expando" flake! A fall out of the pumpy roof on to any gear in that crack would be just an all-around Bad Idea, man. (The mildness of my horror was because I was following. If I had been leading, I would have projectile vomited.)And if that whole section is expandable with thumb flexing, then the anchors immediately above it are also suspect. I know I won't be lining up for this one after the next freeze/thaw cycle, but other than that. . . .
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Oct 23, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Don't let the grade intimidate you. While this route is a blast, there is nothing 5.11 about it. Great hands to wide hands for the whole way and the traverse can be done two different ways, both ways being no harder than 5.10. If you are at the wall, it is definitely a must do.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Nov 13, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This has become my favorite route at the creek! What an amazing pitch, with a wild face traverse thrown in for added value and excitement. I believe this pitch is honest 5.11.
By Diego Rivera
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 5, 2008

Indeed there is crap rock just below the upper roof, tap tap the right side of the crack to find where it ends, several feet before the roof itself. If you still have a #1 camalot it'll go in the good rock just above the hollow bit. You can back clean it after you place the #2 in the roof/lip to avoid drag.

At this point you could run it to the anchors and the Big whip would be clean.

Significantly more difficult than lots of 11- creek big hands. 5.11 for the creek.
By juancho
Feb 12, 2009

The crack switch and the roof at the top are killer. Memorable lead. Toprope it and it would lose a lot of the magic. Go for it..
By Dustin Clelen
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I found the above advice about saving a #2 camalot for protecting the final roof to be fan-friggin-tastic beta (no joke). A #1 might work as well if you're short on gear. Also, I used a .75 camalot to protect the traverse. You need to do a move above the little ledge to get it in there (and the rock isn't great) but it provides an appreciated feeling of security for doing that step-across. Put a long sling (or even a double) on it and the piece after, and the rope drag isn't bad at all.
By Sam Perkins
From: Rexburg, ID
Oct 7, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I can really only describe this as being.... indescribable... In the absolute best way possible. Holy crap.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
May 3, 2013

Seriously one of the funnest routes I've ever done. The crack switch is unbelievable and you feel so badass when you do it (once you are established, while you are doing it is scary as hell!). The roof at the top is stellar and it is totally achievable at the grade. I'm psyched to get on this beast again!

Just remember how long it is and bring a tag line! I had to rap as far as I could on an 80m then down aid to the boulder.
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2013

Definitely some scary loose rock just below the roof. Some trundling may be in order...
By Kevin DB
Apr 8, 2014

Incredible route. I literally had a euphoric buzz for an hour after climbing it. One of the best pitches at the creek or anywhere.