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Sinbad-Herbert 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 2,341
Submitted By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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P1 of Sinbad-Herbert
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sinbad-Herbert starts just right of Crud Gully if you're facing the rock. It's a great, steep handcrack on the left wall, that goes to some intermediate anchors 60' up. Going just to here is probably .10a or .10b. From the intermediate anchors, continue up the bolted face for another 120'. It is all bolted face climbing, with bolts right at hard moves, well protected. Excellent moves. This is a newer route, and the upper section is still a little 'green' but still excellent.

You need 2 60m ropes to descend, one 70m to reach the lower anchor, or you can traverse to the Groove anchor, or top it out at 5.6R.


Location 

Just right of Crud Gully, about 30' beyond the .7 start to surrealistic pillar.


Protection 

finger-hand sized cams for the crack, bolted upper face. Bolted anchor.



Photos of Sinbad-Herbert Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the 1st Pitch
Starting the 1st Pitch
Zach Thompson on the overhanging hands section of the Sinbad Herbert.
Zach Thompson on the overhanging hands section of ...
First pitch, great stemming and jamming for 60 ft
First pitch, great stemming and jamming for 60 ft
Perfect hands!
Perfect hands!
Comments on Sinbad-Herbert Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 27, 2007

At least a couple of the bolts on the upper face are a bit reachy to clip. I'm 6' and I remember needing to either lock off pretty low or even jump, quickdraw in hand, to clip a couple of them. Rock quality above the first-pitch belay is poor for about 20 or 30' and, although easy climbing, you wouldn't want to fall before the first bolt on that pitch--especially if onto your belayer. This is a very good reason to do the climb in one long 200' pitch.

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jun 28, 2009

Couldn't figure out where the second pitch started, I looked around for bolts and chalk, but couldn't see anything except what appeared to be virgin rock.

Regardless, the first pitch is considered a lower buttress classic by many. While I agree that it's a good route overall, I do think that a .10b rating is an inflated grade if you use the wall to the right. I've done it both ways and I've been told by many people that the wall to the right is on. If this is true, I'd give this pitch 5.9 for taller climbers and maybe .10- for shorter climbers.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 24, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The "perfect hands" section up higher is more like "perfect elbows" for some of us! :)

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 16, 2009

Perfect Elbows? Sounds pretty slammer. You propose 5.8 then?

This climb can also be led just using the corner, without going into the perfect elbows crack on the left.

To begin the extension, or second pitch, there are two ways. From the anchor you can creep out right onto the face, over, up and back left a tad to the first lead bolt. A little spicy and poor rock quality.

A better choice is to just cruise up the crummy gully to the left then step right out onto the face next to the bolt. Still bad rock, but easy climbing.

Also, with regard to the reachy clips, this was put up on lead by a 5'6" climber!

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jun 21, 2010

I did P2 today, a little dirty and rotten for 20 feet or so above the P1 chains, but pretty solid from there on out. Watch out for the loose flake near the first(?) bolt, it (now) has large "X"'s on it.

When making your way up to the first bolt from the P1 chains, go left into the gully, it's MUCH more secure than going right.

One typical dike crux (for the Leap), delicate and reachy .10+ 3/4 of the way up P2.

Safe to rap with one 70m rope to P1 chains.

By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Jul 21, 2010

Two words, delicious jams

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

For those of very short statures, pitch 2 will be significantly harder than 10d. So bring your Lynn Hill skillz.

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Sep 19, 2012

The first pitch of this route is phenomenal. Outstanding steep hands climbers dream of with excellent stems from time to time (and I'm not a tall guy, 5'7)

By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

P1 is awesome! P2 starts out chossy but becomes a well-protected, less than vertical dyke pulling face climb.