Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Simplify belays with an unequal-length equalette.
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Chris D
From the couch
Aug 4, 2011
Sign near the Third Flatiron

Rick Blair wrote:
The title of this thread is hilarious by the way.... starting to wonder if this is a troll.


No hilarity intended. I just found a way to save a couple seconds by tying an equalette differently than I'd tied it before and thought I'd share.

Saving time...unequal-length tails on the equalette...seemed like a good way to describe it.

The thread has turned into the same tired old argument about what the best anchor is, so I guess it doesn't matter anyway. Meh...






...I'm takin' my equalette and goin' home!

{wipes tear from corner of eye}


FLAG
By Greg D
From Here
Aug 5, 2011
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

Chris D wrote:
No hilarity intended. I just found a way to save a couple seconds by tying an equalette differently than I'd tied it before and thought I'd share. Saving time...unequal-length tails on the equalette...seemed like a good way to describe it. The thread has turned into the same tired old argument about what the best anchor is, so I guess it doesn't matter anyway. Meh... ...I'm takin' my equalette and goin' home! {wipes tear from corner of eye}


Sorry Chris. I'd like to help. I don't think you understand how to rig an equalette... and a few other here don't either. There is no tail to shorten. There is not knot to untie... just a few cloves. So much more...


FLAG
By Chris D
From the couch
Aug 5, 2011
Sign near the Third Flatiron

Greg D wrote:
Sorry Chris. I'd like to help. I don't think you understand how to rig an equalette... and a few other here don't either. There is no tail to shorten. There is not knot to untie... just a few cloves. So much more...



Greg,

I don't know why you're so insistent on being "right," when neither of us are wrong. Unless you've written a better book about using the equalette than Long and Gaines. Or maybe the newest edition has been revised to include only cloves in the equalette anchor setup.

From p. 169 of Long and Gaines, ed. 2:

"For three placements, one arm will accommodate two placements, (usually with clove hitches tied into the individual strands of the arm) and the other arm will connect to one placement (via the loop on the cord, a clove hitch, or overhand on a bight)." (emphasis mine)

So you can use a clove, or (as I prefer) shorten the arm (sorry, maybe my calling it a "tail" confused you) with an overhand.

In the photo of a three-piece anchor with an equalette, Long has clearly chosen the overhand knot to shorten the arm attached to one piece. Here's the photo:

Equalette on three pieces
Equalette on three pieces


So neither of us are wrong, but I try to make sure I know what I'm talking about, especially if it's to tell someone else that they don't. It would behoove you to do the same.


FLAG
By Rick Blair
From Denver
Aug 5, 2011
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

An anchor like an ACR is fully dynamically equalizing, a cordalette is pre-equalized and an equalette is dynamically equalized at the master point but pre-equalized at the anchors on each side of the master point. If you want to dynamically equalize 3 or 4 pieces the equallete is not the best choice.

I keep mine pre-tied, I place my pro, clip my strands into the pro and then clove all my strands to the correct length. I feel this is fast and gives me a lot of flexibility, that is why I use it.

As far as re-purposing the cord I can untie it, but most of the time such as slinging a tree I find I can just leave the knots in.

As much as threads like this seem to be flogging a dead horse I usually get something out of them, I might try the sliding figure 8 on one side of the master point one of these days.


FLAG
By Greg D
From Here
Aug 5, 2011
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

Sorry Chris. I was refering to this which was not you.

Caleb wrote: Correct me if my logic is flawed but it seems to me that there are two load strands leaving the power point of an equalette, each supporting 50% of the load. If you introduce a third piece into the anchor you clove two pieces to one shared leg and the last piece is on its own leg. 50% of the force goes to the two pieces at 25% each and the last piece holds 50% of the load.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2