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"Simple" Training Plan
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Site Landlord
Aug 19, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
I have a nice home wall I spend about 45 minutes on 2-3x per week. I don't really have any plan when I go down there, but try to climb hard (whatever that means) each session.

Does anyone have any advice for a simple training plan that would maximize my 3x45 minute sessions per week?

I climb at Smith, so think crimps ;)
Andy Laakmann
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,415 points
Aug 19, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay
Every time I try to come up with a simple training plan it ends up becoming complicated. :p

I honestly don't think I'm dedicated enough to do a block plan or to aim for being in peak fitness for the first 2 weeks of February or anything like that; "A bit stronger than I am now by the time good temps roll around" is really the most specific goal that I ever have any success with.

Right now my training plan (and the word "plan" is used generously) looks like this:

- 3 days per week in the gym
- Running, weight lifting, swimming, biking etc. on the three remaining days of the week. These days are really just to maintain a set fitness level, or to train for other non-climbing goals.
- I take Fridays off completely.
- Random sets of ab exercises and pushups are distributed randomly among mornings, evenings, lunch, &c.

In the climbing gym I'm currently doing the following:
- Ryan Palo's hangboard workout twice a week (Tuesday/Saturday)
- Campus board workout once a week (Thursdays)
- Many, many laps on moderate to moderate+ routes with an autobelay at least once per week. 2 20-minute blocks of laps with a 10 minute rest between them seems to work well.
- And I put in as much hard bouldering as I can in there somewhere too.

Even all of that starts sounding really regimented when all is said and done, and I realize that it doesn't exactly fit with a home gym. I often just go and "climb hard" for an hour or so too and while it's fun, I generally leave feeling like I didn't really "train" so much as just mess around on some stuff. I'm trying to break that habit.

I'm curious to see other responses though.
Peter Franzen
From Phoenix, AZ
Joined Jan 1, 2001
4,021 points
Aug 19, 2011
I have a couple of suggestions for you and your home wall. Give yourself two days off before getting on a project. I don't go to the gym on Thurs. or Fri. if I am working a project on the weekend. If I am working a project that has a crux that is giving me trouble I build it as best I can ala Yaniro. There are a lot of simple timed hang workouts and you can add them to whatever you are doing on your wall. I have done them for a spell then I get my project and stop. Invariably I decide I need to train harder and lose weight but before I do I get the project that has inspired me to do so. 1Eric Rhicard
Joined Feb 15, 2006
8,692 points
Aug 19, 2011
I assume your home wall is the only climbing you get during the off season? If so, you really need to make those 45 minutes count.
The home wall is a perfect opportunity to tune into exactly what you need. I would check out Mike's Plan for a comprehensive study on training to crush with limited resources and limited time.
You could set up a hangboard, campus board and 4x4 system on your home wall for a periodized training plan. It's super simple, just focus on one exercise for 3-4 weeks in the proper order and you will come out stronger in the end.
Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Oct 26, 2006
398 points

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