|By Peter Franzen
From Phoenix, AZ
Aug 19, 2011
Every time I try to come up with a simple training plan it ends up becoming complicated. :p
I honestly don't think I'm dedicated enough to do a block plan or to aim for being in peak fitness for the first 2 weeks of February or anything like that; "A bit stronger than I am now by the time good temps roll around" is really the most specific goal that I ever have any success with.
Right now my training plan (and the word "plan" is used generously) looks like this:
- 3 days per week in the gym
- Running, weight lifting, swimming, biking etc. on the three remaining days of the week. These days are really just to maintain a set fitness level, or to train for other non-climbing goals.
- I take Fridays off completely.
- Random sets of ab exercises and pushups are distributed randomly among mornings, evenings, lunch, &c.
In the climbing gym I'm currently doing the following:
- Ryan Palo's hangboard workout twice a week (Tuesday/Saturday)
- Campus board workout once a week (Thursdays)
- Many, many laps on moderate to moderate+ routes with an autobelay at least once per week. 2 20-minute blocks of laps with a 10 minute rest between them seems to work well.
- And I put in as much hard bouldering as I can in there somewhere too.
Even all of that starts sounding really regimented when all is said and done, and I realize that it doesn't exactly fit with a home gym. I often just go and "climb hard" for an hour or so too and while it's fun, I generally leave feeling like I didn't really "train" so much as just mess around on some stuff. I'm trying to break that habit.
I'm curious to see other responses though.