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"Simple" Training Plan
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2011
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

I have a nice home wall I spend about 45 minutes on 2-3x per week. I don't really have any plan when I go down there, but try to climb hard (whatever that means) each session.

Does anyone have any advice for a simple training plan that would maximize my 3x45 minute sessions per week?

I climb at Smith, so think crimps ;)


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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Phoenix, AZ
Aug 19, 2011
Belay

Every time I try to come up with a simple training plan it ends up becoming complicated. :p

I honestly don't think I'm dedicated enough to do a block plan or to aim for being in peak fitness for the first 2 weeks of February or anything like that; "A bit stronger than I am now by the time good temps roll around" is really the most specific goal that I ever have any success with.

Right now my training plan (and the word "plan" is used generously) looks like this:

- 3 days per week in the gym
- Running, weight lifting, swimming, biking etc. on the three remaining days of the week. These days are really just to maintain a set fitness level, or to train for other non-climbing goals.
- I take Fridays off completely.
- Random sets of ab exercises and pushups are distributed randomly among mornings, evenings, lunch, &c.

In the climbing gym I'm currently doing the following:
- Ryan Palo's hangboard workout twice a week (Tuesday/Saturday)
- Campus board workout once a week (Thursdays)
- Many, many laps on moderate to moderate+ routes with an autobelay at least once per week. 2 20-minute blocks of laps with a 10 minute rest between them seems to work well.
- And I put in as much hard bouldering as I can in there somewhere too.

Even all of that starts sounding really regimented when all is said and done, and I realize that it doesn't exactly fit with a home gym. I often just go and "climb hard" for an hour or so too and while it's fun, I generally leave feeling like I didn't really "train" so much as just mess around on some stuff. I'm trying to break that habit.

I'm curious to see other responses though.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 19, 2011
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

I have a couple of suggestions for you and your home wall. Give yourself two days off before getting on a project. I don't go to the gym on Thurs. or Fri. if I am working a project on the weekend. If I am working a project that has a crux that is giving me trouble I build it as best I can ala Yaniro. There are a lot of simple timed hang workouts and you can add them to whatever you are doing on your wall. I have done them for a spell then I get my project and stop. Invariably I decide I need to train harder and lose weight but before I do I get the project that has inspired me to do so.


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 19, 2011

I assume your home wall is the only climbing you get during the off season? If so, you really need to make those 45 minutes count.
The home wall is a perfect opportunity to tune into exactly what you need. I would check out Mike's Plan for a comprehensive study on training to crush with limited resources and limited time.
You could set up a hangboard, campus board and 4x4 system on your home wall for a periodized training plan. It's super simple, just focus on one exercise for 3-4 weeks in the proper order and you will come out stronger in the end.


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