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Simple Suff 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Ants Leemets, Olaf Soot, 1962 FFA: Bob Anderson, Henry Barber, 1972.
Page Views: 4,055
Submitted By: Denis O'Connor on Apr 23, 2006

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Nearing the top.

Description 

This overhanging right-facing corner looks like a typical Gunks pitch, but the climbing is unusual because of the mandatory stemming.

Simple Suff is about a 21-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 17-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

Start below the obvious large corner about 40 feet right of Kligfield's Follies. Climb easy rock to the base of the corner, then stem and face climb about 40 feet to a bolted anchor.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Simple Suff Slideshow Add Photo
Laura Smith beginning Simple Suff's not-so-simple stuff during Gunks Reunion '08.
Laura Smith beginning Simple Suff's not-so-simple ...
Marc Gravatt in the Simple Suff corner.
Marc Gravatt in the Simple Suff corner.
Comments on Simple Suff Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Administrator
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

great climbing, but the first and hardest crux move is just above a ledge, and the gear didn't seem 100%. part of this is probably due to me not climbing here much and not having a good idea of where the marginal/pretty good demarcation of how good the gear is when it is in weird rock.

superb stemming, i found myself hanging off my arms to shake my legs out.

By vanishing spy
Sep 21, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is the best climb to break the 5.10 grade at the Gunks: no wild roofs, no run out "easy" section, and there are solid stances (if you have strong calves) to place gear. There is nearly unlimited pro along the crack and occasionally outside of it as well. Small cams, black alien to yellow and 3CUs are most helpful, the crack also takes nuts. Leave your big stuff at home. Bolted, chained anchor with rap rings through the hangers.

By David Stowe
Sep 28, 2009

While I think that this is a great pitch, I'm not so sure that I would reccomend this as the best climb to break into 5.10 with. The gear at the start is not the greatest and a little tricky. I know of a few people who have messed up their ankles pretty good on the open moves. Once you get going the gear is excellent, but this type of climbing is a little atypical for the Gunks and may really throw some people off, seeming much harder than it actually is.

By slim
Administrator
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

FWIW, i thought this was harder and not as well protected as p-38, doubleissima, nosedive, and quite a few others. for somebody who is pretty good at placing gear, stemming, fairly fit, etc it would be OK for a first gunks 10, but i would say there are quite a few others that would be better.

cool route though, that henry was wheelin and dealin back in the day!

By J Med
Aug 1, 2011

I protected the small pod in the crack above the ledge at the start of the initial hard climbing with a #2 tricam- a 2.5 might be a better fit, but I felt the 2 was solid!

By rogerbenton
Oct 26, 2013

Fun and challenging.

I thought gear was totally fine. Take a BD .75 and smaller with extra small cams and tiny wires and you're good to go.

So- what's a SUFF?

By Leo Hski
Mar 21, 2014

"Suffering"

By rogerbenton
Jun 18, 2014

"Suffering"...

Makes perfect sense.