Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 3 pitches
FA: Arnold Wexler, Jim McCarthy 1953/54
Page Views: 7,786 total · 43/month
Shared By: reddirt on Jun 8, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman

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Description Suggest change

Want to do Ecstasy but there's a queue behind a slowly caterpillaring party of three? Here's your chance to do a stouter Seneca seven of equal or arguably greater quality.

P1: 50 ft; 5.5 PG-PG13.  Start about 15 ft to the right side of the cave entrance. Climb straight up to a vegetated alcove which is to the right of a long 50º ramp that crosses over the cave.  This pitch is sometimes wet due to being directly below a large gully that acts as a funnel for any rainwater from the upper crag. 

P2: 75 ft; 5.4 G. Easy and exposed. Climb onto and up the 50º ramp until it ends. The ramp briefly becomes narrow in two places. Build a belay station at the end of the ramp, beneath a roof.

P3: 35 ft; 5.7+ G-PG. Short but stout. From the belay station at the end of the ramp, head right (that is, back down the ramp) a few feet until you are just to the right of the roof. Place high protection, then climb up and left to gain the roof (crux). Once on the roof, delicately traverse right a few feet (minor crux), place pro, then climb straight up 15 feet to reach a vegetated ledge with a small tree.

Caution

There have been a number of incidents on SJM on the third pitch, including a severed rope from rockfall and a death from a fall where the rope was severed. On this short pitch it is wise to place protection early and often, extending draws appropriately and checking that the rope continues to run smoothly.  A fall at the start of this pitch will likely leave the climber hanging in space and getting back on the rock will be tricky.

Descent Options

1. There is a bolted rap station slightly down and to the climber's left of the final vegetated ledge. This is a very nice, 150 foot, free-hanging rap which requires two 60m ropes.

2. A short scramble/hike up brings you to the top of Ecstasy Jr which has rap rings.

3. A longer hike up brings you to Luncheon Ledge and then the top of the Stairmaster, which you can hike down.

Variations

Cave Start variation: Start the route by climbing the right wall of the cave.

Muscle Beach Finish (5.8). From the belay station at the end of the ramp (end of P2), move further left about 10', past where the ramp appears to end and directly below the big roof of Muscle Beach.  Climb directly up, gaining the roof on it's right side and traverse right on big holds and pull the roof, moving out right and up (crux - great #3 placement). Finish up to the top.

Westerly Extension variation: At the end of the normal second pitch it is possible to continue around the corner for another 15 ft. to the true end of the ramp. The remaining variant finishes start from this very far out belay.  This is also a decent spot to belay the Muscle Beach Finish.

Ecstasy Connection variation: From the Westerly Extension belay station past the normal end of the ramp, downclimb until it is possible to move left, then up to the belay on the second pitch of Ecstasy. This can also be reversed.

Traverse Finish variation: From the end of the Westerly Extension belay station, climb up the white corner to a small ledge which runs out to the right. Traverse around the corner to easier ground, then up to the tree.

Location Suggest change

From Roy Gap Rd cross creek & go up stone stair master. Upon reaching wood steps go right past Ecstasy & large cave. Start is approximately 15ft right of cave (or start on right side of cave for 5.8 variation).

Protection Suggest change

cams small to kinda big...
grey Mastercam thru blue/#3 Camalot

rusty pins scattered thru P2 & P3. Fixed stopper on P3.

Photos

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