Simple Ceilings  5.5

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 290 feet Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  Willie Crowther and Gardiner Perry the III, 1957 Submitted By:  Simon Thompson on Oct 21, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start: At a short, blocky, right-facing corner with a protruding block about 15 feet up. This is the same start as Three Pines.

P1: Climb the short corner to a brushy ledge with a tree. Move up and left following a short corner and face passing a ledge to another ledge and belay below right-facing flakes. 5.2

P2: Climb the flakes up to a small grassy ledge and continue up and left past another ledge to the GT Ledge. 5.3

Traverse left on the GT Ledge to the second of 3 jutting pine trees. The next pitch starts at the low overhang about 15 feet right of a belay/rap station (Nemesis)

P3: Make a few moves past the low overhang and move right to small corner and another overhang (crux), above which is a small ledge. Climb fun moves up the face past a piton (another crux), aiming for the obvious block that teeters out over the face. Belay on the nice ledge under the roof above. 5.5

P4: Move up and left past the roof/corner aiming for a second pin above a slab under another big roof. Make the thin traverse left and exit up easier rock to the top. 5.5 (The Williams guidebook has this pitch at 5.3 but I thought the traverse was the crux of the route. It's possible I missed something though.)

Descent: From the top of the climb it is possible to follow a faint(at first) herd path right to the bolted rappels of Three Pines.