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Deer Leap
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Black Wonton, The 
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Simple and Independent Minds 
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Simple and Independent Minds 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b C2- PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b C2- [details]
FA: Guy Alsentzer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 691
Submitted By: GuyA on May 8, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Simple and Independent Minds

Description 

At the right side of the cave @ Deer Leap's Right End is a wildly overhanging crack with a fixed RURP (broken cable) at its bottom. The crack starts incipient and widens to off-hands, overhanging roughly 10-15' in 50 vertical feet. The first section climbs as two stout boulder problems without a rest between, while the wide crack in the second half taps different technique. FA: 5.12 C2- [8/17/2010]. It should go fully free: go get it!


Location 

Deer Leap, VT. Hike to main wall, then to the Right End with a big cave. S.I.M is the overhanging crack climber's right of the cave.


Protection 

The broken RURP at the start should be replaced. Anchors up and right once over the lip. Ballnutz, nuts, TCUs, .3, .4, .5, 2x #1, 2x #2, 1x#3. Secure gear nest and commitment required for the start.



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Simple and Independent Minds
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