Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Dream Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Brief History of Time T 
Broken Dreams 
Down, Not Out 
Dreamscape S 
Dry Ice S 
Flying Vee T,TR 
Gully Washer S 
Jake's Problem 
Journey to Ixtlan S 
Long Lost Dreams 
Phantasmagoria T,S 
Red Limit S 
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 
Sea of Dreams S 
Simone Has Dreams TR 
Soul on Ice S 
Stained Glass S 
Tales of Power S 
Timeless aka New Route Right of A Brief History S 
Wet Dreams S 
Whippers in Time S 
Wrinkles in Time S 

Simone Has Dreams 

Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+

   
Type:  TR, Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+ [details]
FA: G Johnson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 246
Submitted By: Greg Johnson on May 25, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Line goes from left to right in the middle of the ...

Description 

This is a fun and powerful boulder problem, but it is advisable to rig it as a TR (gnarly landing zone and no easy exit). Locate the dark streak/seam/crack fifteen feet right (up gully) from the start of Red Limit and straight down from a tree on a ledge/alcove. Bust out pinches and side-clings to hit the mid-way tooth-horn. From here, punch left to jugs or power up the flare. A sit start is possible.

Location 

See above. It is down gully from A Brief History of Time and just up gully from Red Limit.

Protection 

For a TR, climb the first three bolts of Red Limit (5.8) and step right to the tree. Rig a TR off the tree.


Comments on Simone Has Dreams Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Johnson
May 28, 2013

My son, Hayden, and I added two additional lines off the same anchor rig. Hayden did "Laidback Nightmare" V1-2. It is the line of flares, pinches, and lay-backs immediately right of the start of Red Limit. It is a bit dirty (we only brushed as needed), but more fun and harder than it looks. I added "Shared Dreams" (V3-4), which starts on Laidback and bumps right to join Simone Has Dreams at the horn.