Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ali Babbler 
As The World Burns 
Beat Junkie 
Fat Man 
Fear of Abraham 
Gold Digger 
Goldbug 
Goldbug Finish 
Goldmember 
Gunboat Diplomacy 
Iron Man 
Know Ethics 
Little Big Man 
Millenium Falcon 
Peanut Man 
Rap Echo 
Rock de Jour 
Rock Du Jours Direct 
Rocket Man 
Shiskebob 
Simon Bar Sinister 
Skewer, The 
Sky Lab (incomplete) 
Soup to Nuts 
Space Shuttle 
Steel Curtain 
Supersize Me 
Sweet Polly Purebred 
Thang, The 
Thin Man 
Thing, The 
Underdog 
Via Ferrata 

Simon Bar Sinister 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: chris smith 12/99
Page Views: 910
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 7, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Lil making the clip before pulling over the lip

Description 

A short but really very fun extension to Underdog. I'm always surprised by how many quality lines are hiding in the hills of Rumney. The big surprise here is that this extension was hiding above a route I've done so many times. I just needed to open my eyes. If it was longer and maybe a bit more sustained it would be considered classic for sure. But the moves are very cool.

Climb Underdog (5.10a) which just gets more fun every time I climb it. Then just before the anchor head a little right to the first bolt of the Simon Bar Sinister extension. After clipping this bolt, make a few hand traverse moves right as you get in to the steep stuff. There is a big flake like hold out right that can yield a bit of a kneebar. At the second bolt you hit some small crimps and get a bit exposed as the relatively low angle rock of Underdog falls away. A few more little crimp moves lead to the lip and the best part yet. A hard move on to a slab using crimps and delicate footing will finish it up. The promise of a big airy fall if you run out of gas looms in the back of your mind.


Location 

As you approach the anchor of Underdog (5.10a) head slightly right and follow 3 bolts out the steep wall above to the quick-clip anchor of Iron Man (5.11c).


Protection 

12 bolts to quick-clips.



Photos of Simon Bar Sinister Slideshow Add Photo
Simon Bar Sinister
Simon Bar Sinister
Comments on Simon Bar Sinister Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 5, 2010

Does anyone know if there are any issues with the rock quality on this pitch (after the rock slides above earlier this year)?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 6, 2010

naw man, should be fine... enjoy it...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 28, 2011

this extention is super fun... did it again today and i really think more people should... ive never seen anyone else do it... its just 3 bolts more on top of underdog...

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Mar 29, 2011

I agree Lee. This is a great climb. It's also easy to scope it after doing Iron Man, as you lower right down the climb. While you're lowering, it might not be a bad idea to put tick marks on the crimps on the slab too...