Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ali Babbler S 
As The World Burns S 
Beat Junkie S 
Fat Man S 
Fear of Abraham T 
Gold Digger S 
Goldbug S 
Goldbug Finish S 
Goldmember S 
Gunboat Diplomacy S 
Iron Man S 
Know Ethics S 
Little Big Man S 
Millenium Falcon S 
Peanut Man S 
Rap Echo S 
Rock de Jour T 
Rock Du Jours Direct S 
Rocket Man S 
Shiskebob T 
Simon Bar Sinister S 
Skewer, The S 
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 
Soup to Nuts S 
Space Shuttle T 
Steel Curtain S 
Supersize Me S 
Sweet Polly Purebred S 
Thang, The S 
Thin Man S 
Thing, The S 
Underdog S 
Via Ferrata S 

Simon Bar Sinister 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: chris smith 12/99
Page Views: 1,009
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Lil making the clip before pulling over the lip

Description 

A short but really very fun extension to Underdog. I'm always surprised by how many quality lines are hiding in the hills of Rumney. The big surprise here is that this extension was hiding above a route I've done so many times. I just needed to open my eyes. If it was longer and maybe a bit more sustained it would be considered classic for sure. But the moves are very cool.

Climb Underdog (5.10a) which just gets more fun every time I climb it. Then just before the anchor head a little right to the first bolt of the Simon Bar Sinister extension. After clipping this bolt, make a few hand traverse moves right as you get in to the steep stuff. There is a big flake like hold out right that can yield a bit of a kneebar. At the second bolt you hit some small crimps and get a bit exposed as the relatively low angle rock of Underdog falls away. A few more little crimp moves lead to the lip and the best part yet. A hard move on to a slab using crimps and delicate footing will finish it up. The promise of a big airy fall if you run out of gas looms in the back of your mind.


Location 

As you approach the anchor of Underdog (5.10a) head slightly right and follow 3 bolts out the steep wall above to the quick-clip anchor of Iron Man (5.11c).


Protection 

12 bolts to quick-clips.



Photos of Simon Bar Sinister Slideshow Add Photo
Simon Bar Sinister
Simon Bar Sinister
Comments on Simon Bar Sinister Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 5, 2010

Does anyone know if there are any issues with the rock quality on this pitch (after the rock slides above earlier this year)?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 6, 2010

naw man, should be fine... enjoy it...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 28, 2011

this extention is super fun... did it again today and i really think more people should... ive never seen anyone else do it... its just 3 bolts more on top of underdog...

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 29, 2011

I agree Lee. This is a great climb. It's also easy to scope it after doing Iron Man, as you lower right down the climb. While you're lowering, it might not be a bad idea to put tick marks on the crimps on the slab too...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 27, 2014

I have now climbed this one many times and accessed it from underdog (standard) and also from the top of Polly... getting in to it from Polly is cool but a good deal harder than the other way and you must take great care to reduce rope drag or it might feel like you are climbing the crux with a 30lb weight hanging from your harness...