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Begin about 50 ft. uphill from the obvious Green Dihedral below the first pitch splitter finger crack. With a 60m rope you can probably do this in two pitches if you set the first belay fairly high.
P1 Climb a steep juggy face for about 15ft, climb around a short flake and onto a good stance at the base of an awesome looking finger crack. Climb the crack with great gear and even better jams. Stop at the fixed slings if only doing this pitch. If continuing on, make a rising traverse left into a right facing dihedral and belay below a steep broken section directly below the offwidth. This is a definite 3-star pitch. 5.9+
P2 Climb through a steep chossy section with great holds so long as they stay put. Pull over a deceptively tricky bulge and crawl on in the slightly overhung flaring crack. When I did this there was a fixed hex + nut equalized with some rap rings at the crux bulge of the offwidth. The crux may be in manuvering around these pieces, but they do give piece of mind. After the bulge, the crack pinches down from flaring offwidth to flaring fingertips. Bring a purple Metolius. Pull one final bulge with some more trickery, and continue up much easier ground (some 5.8, lots of bird shit) until reaching a suitable belay stance. I stopped about 40 ft shy of scrambling at the top. 5.11a
P3 Climb a short pitch up a right facing dihedral and trend up and left towards the saddle once on easy ground. 5.8
To descend, scramble around the back of the tower towards the fixed rap stations. Route finding is a little tricky. By staying low, we found a rap station off of a questionable tree that led to a walkable gully below the fixed stations.
Up to a #3.5 Camalot for the offwidth, optional #4 below it. Fixed anchors on top of the stellar first pitch.
Moving through the bulge. There are a few hand jam...
Above the bulge the climbing eases off to maybe 7 ...
Mike Keegan on Simian's Way, great first pitch, a ...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 28, 2002
Awesome route. The fixed slings at top of P1 are an eyesore.
|By Andy Moore|
Oct 28, 2003
The 5.9+ first pitch is quite good and well worth doing by itself. Take extra nuts and cams in the fingertips to fingers range.
You can get down from the first pitch with one rope, either from a slightly scary mess of slings threaded at the bottom of a huge detached flake (this can be backed up with gear for the belay), or it is possible to traverse over to the anchors for the bolted climbs to the left.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 18, 2004
Fun route. Pitches 1,3 and four are good. Pitch two is whatever. There was a fixed piece at the crux when I did this, which I backed up with a #4 Camalot. After that you'll be psyched to have a good selection of Aliens or small TCUs. More face climbing than thrutching. Although, I sure did a bit of thrutching.
|By Kevin Gillest|
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 23, 2011
First pitch is not to be missed, great pitch.
Does anybody know the actual start, is it direct or traverse in from the left?