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Simians to the Sun 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bruce Lella, early '80s.
Page Views: 5,863
Submitted By: Grant Bryans on May 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Tim on the "summit" of Simians in early ...

Description 

Climb the start up to the belay ledge, for some fun funky moves stay in the crack, for some fun face climbing on trad gear go right. At the belay ledge, climb the bolted route in front of you to finish the classic climb.

Protection 

East Animas rack with some draws.


Photos of Simians to the Sun Slideshow Add Photo
Seth on Simians to the Sun.
Seth on Simians to the Sun.
First pitch of Simians.
First pitch of Simians.
Top roping Simians to the Sun, 5.9+.
Top roping Simians to the Sun, 5.9+.

Comments on Simians to the Sun Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve C
From: Missoula, MT
Oct 18, 2007

This is a cool route. The first pitch is all trad and has some interesting and fun face moves to a single chimney move below the anchors that can be bypassed on the left via 9+/10- face climbing. Small-med cams and stoppers protect this pitch well.

The second pitch is also stellar. It is about 120' with the crux coming directly off the belay. Steep moves protected by bolts take you to a small overhang (which you can protect with a small stopper). After surmounting the overhang, a sea of 5.7 edges take you to the top. Walk left to rappel.
By Brian Hansen
From: West of Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2008

FA: Bruce Lella, early '80s.
By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 19, 2011

Can do this as one pitch with a 60m, more like 200' not 250' like the description says.
By CJK
From: Northern, NM
Jul 25, 2013

East A. regulars, please help me out here… wasn’t the original line intended to go straight up the dihedral and not out to the left? Thanks!!!
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Nov 20, 2013

Assuming you are referring to the first pitch. If you don't go left, it bumps the grade up to 10+....