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Black Magic
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Black Magic S 
Chalk on the trigger S 
Climb Interrupted  S 
Helix S 
Kronk S 
Lock and Load S 
Needles and Pins S 
Orogeny S 
Problem Child S 
Simian S 
Stay on the Porch S 

Simian 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Jeff Pedersen
Page Views: 702
Submitted By: Greg Parker on Nov 25, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Such a crazy fun climb!! Deffently get on it!
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Others may disagree, but I think this route is classic. The slab start is awesome, even though you're pissed every time you have to climb it (at least I was). It's hard. After the slab, you get a decent rest before climbing through a pretty difficult boulder problem out the steepest part of the roof. Another little rest helps you recover before finishing up on insecure holds. Brilliant. This is the one route that haunts me for not redpointing before moving away....


Location 

This route is located to the left of The Helix, or two routes right of Black Magic.


Protection 

bolts



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By nathan williamson
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c

Amazing line!!!!