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 ADVANCED
Loggerhead Buttress
Routes Sorted
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?? Simian Sex Junior T 
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 
Drunk Tank T 
Edge-u-cator T 
Le Nocturne T 
Log Jam T 
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 
Orange Juice Avenue T 
Simian Sex T 
Sink Like A Stone S 
Sober Up T 
Sorry Poopsie T 
Sow Sow Sow T 
Swillar Pillar T 

Simian Sex 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tucker Tech and Ray Olsen - April 1990
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: Osprey on Nov 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This is a hard finger crack with a bolt protected crux. The climbing is sustained and demands your attention all the way to the two bolt anchor. High quality granite, a must do for the .10d lovers!

Location 

Just uphill from the water groove start of the Loggerhead Ledge Route. The route is slightly right facing.

Protection 

Doubles of small gear, nothing big, and one quick draw.


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By Alexey
From: San Jose
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

the crux is more like face climb [ layback/high-step ].
Clipping bolt from stance was very reachy for me [5.7'], but you can place yellow alien instead.
Well protected route - it does not look so from below. Take micro- nuts and small gear. Biggest you need #2 cam
70 m rope not reach the ground- down climbed ~5 feet
By vincent L.
From: Redwood City
Oct 30, 2011

Our 70m reached with a few feet to spare .