Simian Sex 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Tucker Tech and Ray Olsen - April 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Osprey on Nov 27, 2009 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a hard finger crack with a bolt protected crux. The climbing is sustained and demands your attention all the way to the two bolt anchor. High quality granite, a must do for the .10d lovers!
Location Just uphill from the water groove start of the Loggerhead Ledge Route. The route is slightly right facing.
Protection Doubles of small gear, nothing big, and one quick draw.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.10d
| the crux is more like face climb [ layback/high-step ].
Clipping bolt from stance was very reachy for me [5.7'], but you can place yellow alien instead.
Well protected route - it does not look so from below. Take micro- nuts and small gear. Biggest you need #2 cam
70 m rope not reach the ground- down climbed ~5 feet |
By vincent L.
Oct 30, 2011
| Our 70m reached with a few feet to spare . |
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