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Silverplume & vicinity
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Silverplume Falls 

WI3

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus: WI3 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Winter
Page Views: 4,395
Submitted By: Chris Zeller on Dec 31, 1969

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Tracy Roach on Silverplume Falls. Conditions as o...

Description 

Silverplume Falls forms a wide amphitheater of 60-80 degree ice at the head of the ravine. The formation consists of a short, lower-step followed by a short ledge and finally a longer steep section that is the main section of the climb. The area is wide enough to accommodate several parties, and many variations are possible. The ice, however, is usually thick and homogeneous with all routes fairly similar. Some easy mixed climbing can be had to the edges of the climb. The ice is on the southern aspect of the mountain and has a fair amount of sun exposure. Therefore, the ice forms a soft, white, foamy consistency rather than the clear hard ice on northern aspects.

Descent: rappel or scramble down rock to the right of the route. Depending upon your comfort level, steep and loose rock may warrant roping up here, but the scramble is certainly less than 5th class.

Protection 

Screws, the ice is usually thick enough to take long screws.

If the left pillar is lead in leaner conditions, a #2 Camalot can be used in the angling crack.

Toprope Protection 

Screws, bolts and slings. The area above the climb is a gravel sandbar of mining tailings, and there is actually very little top-rope protection available.

There are 2 boulders with 3 bolts each and chains. The right boulder seems larger and more stable. The left boulder is close to 30m (requiring a 60m rope). The right boulder is close to 35m (requiring a 70m rope).

Use several screws as a backup if there is enough ice.


Photos of Silverplume Falls Slideshow Add Photo
WooHoot -Looks IN to me..! Lee Smith ready to sink -04Feb07
BETA PHOTO: WooHoot -Looks IN to me..! Lee Smith ready to sink...
Eddie cleaning the route, directly below the short, but fun, crux of the climb, 12/8/13.
Eddie cleaning the route, directly below the short...
Levi R gettin it on! Fri, Jan 13.. not so bad for Fri the 13th.
Levi R gettin it on! Fri, Jan 13.. not so bad for ...
December 2008 - Ice not fully consolidated, made for an interesting lead.
BETA PHOTO: December 2008 - Ice not fully consolidated, made f...
Building!
Building!
Peter Gram on the central pillar 2/24/02.
Peter Gram on the central pillar 2/24/02.
Eric Chrisman on interesting left start 1/25/02.  Note, angle of shot makes it look steeper than it is.
Eric Chrisman on interesting left start 1/25/02. ...
Jan. 9, 2010. Left side is well formed.
Jan. 9, 2010. Left side is well formed.
Conditions as of yesterday 12/15.
Conditions as of yesterday 12/15.
Eddie leading the short, but steeper, right side, 12/8/13.
Eddie leading the short, but steeper, right side, ...

Comments on Silverplume Falls Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 25, 2012
By Jim D.
Dec 13, 2001

Silverplume - The ice is in and good, with 3-4 short routes to choose from (WI3 or so). Could use some more moisture and cold though, as in once section, the ice was thin enough to see/hear water flowing briskly underneath, even though it was 16F and cloudy.
By Jeff Dwyer
Dec 14, 2001

We checked out the falls on Tuesday 12/11 and it was a blast - our first Colorado ice. We toproped the center of the climb and the ice was good. We could see and hear the water rushing underneath the ice and it was a little thin in the middle, but overall it was still great. Had a little trouble with placing screws in the wet ice in places. The weather was great but it got cold once the sun set. Easy access and fun!
By Brice W
Dec 17, 2001

We climbed on Saturday, 12.15.01. The ice was fine for climbing, though like the description says, it is white and relatively soft. I don't think I'd want to take a whipper on some of the screws I placed. There were some thin spots (2-6 inches), but it was easy to find placements for 17cm and even 22cm screws. There are some spots where the water is running under a thin layer of ice. The route started to get sun around 10:30am. This is an area where early starts are a good idea. An update on the anchors: There are three bolted anchors in the rocks at the top of the climb. I think two have two bolts and one has three. As of Saturday they weren't covered up with ice.
By Julian Smith
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 6, 2002

Silverplume Falls are in good shape. Definitely not as fat as the picture in the Cameron Burns Guide. Lots of nice blue plastic. The left and middle were running with a little water.
By Randy Charrette
Jan 21, 2002

Was out there Saturday morning. Arrived around 8AM. It was wet! Starting up the first 10 feet of the climb I was kicking in slush 4 [inches] or so. Water running hard from center to left side. Right of center was not bad. Couldn't believe how wet it was considering the cold lately (not there I guess!). [Definitely] a great time though!
By Jeff Dwyer
Jan 25, 2002

Climbed here again on 1/24 in the late afternoon. Ice was a little soft and slushy in places, also where ice had formed over top of snow, but still great climbing. Tricky to place screws in a few spots. The flow is almost down to the parking lot, so access is really easy not.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 27, 2002

Climbed Silverplume on 2/24 The curtain had melted into 3 distinct pillars at the top. Lots of the ice was rotten and scary, but not too bad all things considered and the current cold snap may be helping.
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
Mar 6, 2002

I don't know how recent the anchors are, but when I climbed Silverplume a couple of weeks ago, there were three sets of bolt anchors at the top.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 10, 2002

climbed in the warm sun yesterday:) getting up early paid off - by 10:30 there were 5 groups trying to share lines on the falls. a couple inches of white foamy ice had to be hacked off before you got to the good stuff, but the ice beneath was surprisingly plastic. makes for a glorius day of fun climbing. we also decided to head upstream to look for more ice. nothing but short sections of slush. see you in [Ouray] in 2 weeks!!!
By Kevin Craig
Dec 15, 2002

"Climbed" here on 12/15. Currently, a vertical slush pile. I don't know if someone did some flow diversion over the summer, but the left/center area that used to be thin is WAY (too) fat and the usually phat right side is WAY thin; NOT an improvement. One of my buds broke through to the hip at the top of the climb while waiting to be lowered and got a boot-ful of water (lots of water running underneath the ice). We opted to bail at this point.
By Brent Roaten
From: Anchorage, AK
Jan 13, 2003



The area is still a vertical slush pile as of 1/10/03. There are a couple of lines worth doing but I wouldn't trust screws to hold a fall under these conditions.
By Jim D.
Feb 19, 2003

Anyone have any recent beta on this?
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 12, 2004

Climbed these routes 2/3 and 2/8. 2/8 in the dark! Haven't been climbing ice long, seemed good. We went left and then right. The thin line on the left needs more time. Was really fun by head lamp, yeah ice climbing's cool.
By Teigon S.
Jan 25, 2012

Headed up to SILVERPLUME with a large group this Friday (Jan. 27th). As of last week, the ice was pretty thin, so we will do our best to share if you decide to come. If you are looking for solitude, you may want to venture somewhere else. Otherwise, we'll see you there :)