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Silverback Extension
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Cyanide Gully
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Africa Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dangling in the Tournafortia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Day glo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Escapade Buttress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Feel tha Bern S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Grape Ape S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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King of the Jungle S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Love is a Dog Straight From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oblivious S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange County Choppers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Rizzla - extension to Zig Zag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Semper Farcisimus T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Silverback S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silverback Extension T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swallow Dance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sympathy for the Grinder T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | FFA Chris Moore Chance Traub |
| Page Views: | 1,754 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | The Real Battitude on Jun 6, 2015 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
3 pitch extension to "One of bishops best sport pitches"
p1. climb the Silverback, .12a bolts 30m
p2. 5.9 gear 25m. Not classic, it just gets ya up there, so hold the judgments.. Traverse left on the ledge, pull a short hand crack roof and continue up blocky corner and out right over a bush to a two bolt stance. Theres a few loose looking blocks around here to watch out for but I have yarded on them all with a crow bar and removed what I could..
Bring/tag a 1,2,3 and a finger piece or two for this pitch
p.3 sustained classic stem dihedral, 5.11+? More technical than Silverback but not that pumpy 9 bolts, no gear.
P.4 roof crack. 5.10+ gear, bolts. Climb a vertical handcrack to a roof (#3 cammer) clip the first bolt and back clean the #3 for later and jam the bolted roof crack to the anchor. you might want a finger piece and something else after the bolts too, I dont remember.
Its hard to describe the nature of the crack so I wont try, but you'll understand why we bolted it once you see.
I highly recommend applying a fat wad of tape around hands here, the crack is sharp! I don't normally tape up, but tape makes it feel easier (.10+), and then you wont worry about filleting the skin off your hands. Its like a #4s splitter with a #1 opening..
p1. climb the Silverback, .12a bolts 30m
p2. 5.9 gear 25m. Not classic, it just gets ya up there, so hold the judgments.. Traverse left on the ledge, pull a short hand crack roof and continue up blocky corner and out right over a bush to a two bolt stance. Theres a few loose looking blocks around here to watch out for but I have yarded on them all with a crow bar and removed what I could..
Bring/tag a 1,2,3 and a finger piece or two for this pitch
p.3 sustained classic stem dihedral, 5.11+? More technical than Silverback but not that pumpy 9 bolts, no gear.
P.4 roof crack. 5.10+ gear, bolts. Climb a vertical handcrack to a roof (#3 cammer) clip the first bolt and back clean the #3 for later and jam the bolted roof crack to the anchor. you might want a finger piece and something else after the bolts too, I dont remember.
Its hard to describe the nature of the crack so I wont try, but you'll understand why we bolted it once you see.
I highly recommend applying a fat wad of tape around hands here, the crack is sharp! I don't normally tape up, but tape makes it feel easier (.10+), and then you wont worry about filleting the skin off your hands. Its like a #4s splitter with a #1 opening..
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