This route follows a long overlooked line between Rampage and Jekyll and Hyde up the steepest part of the cliff. Starting at the base of an obvious left-leaning crack, climb solid yellow and white quartzite up to and over the roof following black hangers. Finish straight up the finger crack to the cold shut anchor (option: step right at the last bolt of Rampage). Big moves between jugs make it a good warm-up. The crux is above the second bolt.
5 bolts if you go direct to anchor.
6 bolts if you finish to right on Rampage.
From: Oakland CA
May 5, 2008
One of the best routes of it's grade around, lots of fun.
|By Floyd Hayes|
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Below the little overhang I moved left, which provided a wee bit of a "rest," then back right again to surmount the overhang.
|By Eric Wilkins|
Feb 4, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
This was a fun route and a nice warmup. There are a couple holds that are starting to loosen and some previous climbers had used chalk to mark them with an X. Either way there are so many jugs on this route that the loose holds weren't required.
From: grass valley, ca
May 16, 2013
Sharpest rock I've touched