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Warping The Gale 

Silver Winds 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Richard Wright
Page Views: 322
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Dec 10, 2001
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Description 

This fine crack caught my eye during my first tour of the "Head". While the rest of the crew clipped bolts on the fabulous Starcastle sport routes, I learned that this clean and obvious trad crack remained unclimbed. Reaching deep in my pack for my "other" rack, it wasn't long before this situation was remedied.

Silver Winds starts in a clean, left-leaning, finger crack about 30' right (north) of "Warping the Gale". The crack ends about halfway up but is replaced by a left-leaning flake that carries you to a scenic, flat belay ledge.

Alas, there is no easy descent (and thus only two stars instead of three). I need to return with a drill to install a permanent belay anchor on top. We scrambled around until we found a block we could sling for a rappel a short distance to the north. If the sling is still there, it is long overdue for replacement, so plan to leave some webbing.


Protection 

Standard rack to 3". NO FIXED ANCHORS! (and no easy way down).



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By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 15, 2010

It should be possible to downclimb off to the northeast (towards Pig's Nose) of this route without rappelling, although some protection will be needed.