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Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab
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An "Unknown" to White Line Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bonsai T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crazy Woman Driver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Cruise Control T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Friday's Friends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Bansai Here S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ward Smith and Chris Smith Aug 1984 |
| Page Views: | 869 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: You may see the Peregrine Falcons closure signs for Painted Walls on the approach path to Rainbow but, so far, Rainbow has always remained open.
Details
Description
Nice moves, but pretty run out to lead!
START - A few feet right of where the climber's path meets the cliff.
P1 - As with First Wave, Take a Giant Step and Perfect Wave, climb the initial slab up to the small maple tree ledge. Belay at bolted anchor/rap. 70-80 ft 5.4 R
P2 - Move out-and-up to the right 15-20 ft (last gear) and then directly up the slab [Var] headed for a left-arching crack/flake that is about 40-50 ft above you, and 25 +/- feet left of, and slightly below, the flake on the climb Perfect Wave. Belay at a comfortable ledge. (with a Belay/Rap station anchor) 80 ft 5.7+ / 5.8- X
Variation - This drops the grade a point or two, but not the "X" factor. Instead of heading directly for the flake & anchor, move up-and-right to intercept the line of in-cuts and mini-ledges which is the extension of the left-hand of the two dikes on Perfect Wave. 5.6 - 5.7 X
P3- Gear in flake, then up and left following the faint dike, then up, slightly right, to the double bolt anchor. 85-90 ft 5.5-5.6 PG-13/R
Descend - Rap the route. Three single-rope raps, or use two 60 m on the middle station to reach the ground. (or two 70m ropes from the very top bolts.)
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