Though this route has a lot in common with its neighbor to the left, Luau (5.12a) such as its grade, its start and general style (techy), it seems to me to have just as much in common with its neighbor to the right, Flying Hawaiian (5.11b). Such as the fact that it is hard in the grade, insecure, and feared by the masses (even those who climb much harder than its grade).
After my first try on the route where I was, as the guidebook predicted, "bug eyed with fear" as I tried to make my clips. A climber who had just sent China Beach (5.14b) said to me "I will never do that route, ever." It's just spooky like that. Now, I must state the embarrassing fact that it's bolted super-safe, just like most Rumney routes, and none of the moves seem harder than 5.12a. It is just the fact that in many sections a foot slip could happen with no warning whatsoever sending you for a ride, a big ride if you happen to be trying to clip when you slip. If this is your kind of climbing, insecure, footwork intense, and a bit spicy, you will love this route. If you are just looking for a first Waimea 5.12a, I feel that Luau is a bit easier and less scary.
Start as for Luau off of a boulder and up an easy crack to a ledge. The line of bolts on the right is your route. A few underclings lead to a couple steep jugs and then in to the techy stuff. Work the feet as you use pinches, underclings, crimps, and awkward feet to make your way up to the final corner where you can wedge yourself in and get a quick rest before doing a few, super-tech moves to the finishing jugs.
Just right of Luau (5.12a) and left of Flying Hawaiian (5.11b)
7 bolts to quick clips.
Maryne starting into the funkadelic stuff.
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 10, 2007
the clips really do feel better after working them out... im nolonger "bug-eyed with fear"... a great route for sure if you like the techy stuff...
|By S. Neoh|
Aug 19, 2010
Great write-up, Lee. Spot on; might well be the most insecure route I have ever been on. I never did climb it cleanly and felt too scared to be on the sharp end for the whole thing. I will take Luau instead, thank you very much :).