Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All the Way-A 
Big Kahuna 
Bottom Feeder 
Butt Bongo Fiesta 
Catch the Wave 
Charlie Don't Surf 
China Beach 
Cold War 
Concrete Jungle 
Coral Sea 
Cote d'Azure 
Dodge the Lemons 
Fly, The 
Flying Fish 
Flying Hawaiian 
Gold Coast 
Great White 
Groupie Fantasy 
Hawaii 5-O 
Jaws II 
Livin' Astro 
Long Board 
Man Overboard 
Mauie Wowie 
Muscle Beach 
Open Project 
Original Tsunami 
Restless Native 
Rhythm X 
Short Board 
Sidewalk Surfing 
Silver Surfer 
Spiny Dogfish 
Style That's Free, The 
Surf's Up 
That Crack 
They Died Surfing 
Tuna Fish is Ludacris 
Urban Surfer 
Vantage Point 
Waimea The Weenie Way 
Whip Tide 

Silver Surfer 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ted Hamond 11/87
Page Views: 3,094
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 5, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Nearing the top! Interesting beta.


Though this route has a lot in common with its neighbor to the left, Luau (5.12a) such as its grade, its start and general style (techy), it seems to me to have just as much in common with its neighbor to the right, Flying Hawaiian (5.11b). Such as the fact that it is hard in the grade, insecure, and feared by the masses (even those who climb much harder than its grade).

After my first try on the route where I was, as the guidebook predicted, "bug eyed with fear" as I tried to make my clips. A climber who had just sent China Beach (5.14b) said to me "I will never do that route, ever." It's just spooky like that. Now, I must state the embarrassing fact that it's bolted super-safe, just like most Rumney routes, and none of the moves seem harder than 5.12a. It is just the fact that in many sections a foot slip could happen with no warning whatsoever sending you for a ride, a big ride if you happen to be trying to clip when you slip. If this is your kind of climbing, insecure, footwork intense, and a bit spicy, you will love this route. If you are just looking for a first Waimea 5.12a, I feel that Luau is a bit easier and less scary.

Start as for Luau off of a boulder and up an easy crack to a ledge. The line of bolts on the right is your route. A few underclings lead to a couple steep jugs and then in to the techy stuff. Work the feet as you use pinches, underclings, crimps, and awkward feet to make your way up to the final corner where you can wedge yourself in and get a quick rest before doing a few, super-tech moves to the finishing jugs.


Just right of Luau (5.12a) and left of Flying Hawaiian (5.11b)


7 bolts to quick clips.

Photos of Silver Surfer Slideshow Add Photo
Maryne starting into the funkadelic stuff.
Maryne starting into the funkadelic stuff.
Comments on Silver Surfer Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 10, 2007

the clips really do feel better after working them out... im nolonger "bug-eyed with fear"... a great route for sure if you like the techy stuff...

By S. Neoh
Aug 19, 2010

Great write-up, Lee. Spot on; might well be the most insecure route I have ever been on. I never did climb it cleanly and felt too scared to be on the sharp end for the whole thing. I will take Luau instead, thank you very much :).