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Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)
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Silver Spur 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines & Tony Sartin, February 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,571
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Feb 1, 2005

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Tony Sartin on the crux third pitch.

Description 

This route is a variation to Bosch Job. Pitches 1 and 2 follow Bosch Job and the 3rd pitch climbs up and left where Bosch Job moves right.

Begin by scrambling up a low-angle slab (at a right-facing corner) to a big ledge about 75 ft. right from the start of Right On. Pitch 1: Go left around the corner, then up a low-angle slab (5.5) to a belay at a small ledge with a block. Pitch 2 (10a): Up steepening face to a bolt, move left to a thin flake which leads to a small left-facing corner. Follow this over a roof, then step right to a 2 bolt hanging belay. Pitch 3 (5.12): Climb past the first 3 bolts of Bosch Job (11+) (Bosch Job traverses about 20 ft. right at this point) then up and left on the blunt "arete" past 9 more bolts to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. This pitch is VERY sustained, with 5.11 moves at each of the first 7 bolts. Rap the route with 2 ropes.

Note on the rating: I pinkpointed pitch 3, in ideal conditions, with quickdraws hanging and tick marks on all the crux holds, after about 5 days of effort over 2 years, and it felt like about 5.12a/b. To onsight this one might be more like 12c/d? No matter what the rating, this route has some excellent rock quality, and achieves a fairly spectacular position on one of the steepest section's of Saddle Rock's main face.


Protection 

12 quickdraws, pro: thin to 3 inches.



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