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Duncan coming to grips.
This excellent route is just to the right of The Grand Course on the West Ridge of Redgarden. It has two pitches, but it is better to do the first pitch of Silver Raven followed by the 11a pitch of Grand Course.
Climb up the chimney on the right for about twenty feet. Place nuts out left from an insecure position and then traverse into the crux. Fire that, then get ready for a burly, awkward section just afterward (llb) to a much appreciated stance. Easier finger jams lead to a belay ledge where you are required to build your own anchor. David A. Turner
Standard Eldo rack with Aliens.
the Hankinator cruisin' in style
photo by Julia Ha...
Rufus Miller leading Silver Raven, photo: Bob Hora...
Silver Raven, 11d. Photo: Johanna Twiford.
|By Chris Dawson|
From: Denver, CO
Nov 26, 2001
The guide gives this an "S" rating. How good is the pro on the first pitch?
|By steve dieckhoff|
Nov 28, 2001
IF YOU DON'T WANT WAY TOO MUCH BETA DON'T READ THIS
I think the pro on this is actually quite good but can be somewhat strenuous to place. From a stance you can clip a fixed bomber small stopper in the corner and then add several more. These protect the initial part of the crux and the highest is no lower than your feet when you place the next gear. A small cam and some stoppers can be placed from a pumpy stance on good holds in the corner. The next corner above takes very small cams well and 'over-your-head' stoppers. If you finish on the GRAND COURSE you might try placing something like a #2 or #3 Camalot in a short slot at the crux-the alternative is a wobbly nut. I didn't have the big cam when I did it a few months ago so I'm just guessing. You can find a rap anchor up and left from the end of GRAND COURSE, it's the top of PARIS GIRL.
SILVER RAVEN is a great route-have fun.
|By Steve Levin|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2001
There are 2 different rap anchors on the broken ledge atop these routes- both are slings around trees. The right-most is directly above Paris Girls, and requires 2 ropes to get down. The other anchor is a bit left from here, and if you rap more into the gully left (careful of loose rock) it is possible to get off with a single 60m rope.
|By Chris Dawson|
From: Denver, CO
Feb 12, 2002
The slot that Steve D. mentions at the crux of the Grand Course takes a perfect 3.5 Camalot.
|By Brad Bond|
May 19, 2004
I think the "s" on this route is another leftover from the early 80's when there were no micro cams. Going up on this route with a couple sets of TCU's and Aliens feels much more comforting than the thought of using nuts alone. Even with the new gear, this is a challenging lead as the gear is below your feet when climbing through the crux, and is very strenuous to place up high. (OK, maybe it still deserves and "s") This route -- finishing on the .11a crux of Grand Course -- can be led in one long, pumpy pitch from the ground. Wow!
|By Rob Kepley|
Jul 30, 2006
Absolutely spectacular climb. Great position and movement. Linked with the 2nd pitch of Grand Course creates a stellar line. One of Eldo's best!
|By Ben Walburn|
From: lafayette, CO
Mar 20, 2011
rating: 5.11c PG13
Spectacular route! The gear is tricky down low, but it is there. I felt like this was easier than other 11+ routes in the canyon. I give it 11c PG-13. At the top, I finished on the right set of anchors, not the Grand Course anchors. This allows for lowering to the pinnacle with a 60m cord. There are now bolted anchors on this route.