Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abracadabra 
Burning Chrome 
Cinders And Saints 
Color of Pomegranates, The 
Controlled Burn  
Darkness 'til Dawn 
Direct Variation to Zot Face 
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) 
Doris Gets Her Oats 
Dream Weaver 
Everybody Route, The 
Fanning the Flame 
Grand Course, The 
Grandmother's Challenge 
Great Zot Variation A., The 
Great Zot, The 
Green Hornet, The 
Green Slab Direct 
Green Slab-Original Route 
Green Sleeves 
Green Spur, The 
Heddie La Rue 
Hot Links 
Hot Spur, The 
Lost in Space 
Maverick 
Northumberland Crack 
Paris Girl 
Piece of the Sun  
Please Close Lid 
Rabbits From Hats 
Razors to Rubble 
Rebuffat's Arete 
Rewritten 
Roof Wall, The 
Silver Raven 
Spur of the Moment 
Sunstar 
Swanson Arete 
Tower Corner Exit 
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn 
Waiting Room 
Warm and Fuzzy 
West Chimney 
Zot Face, The 

Silver Raven 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Skip Guerin & Bob Horan FFA, 1981
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,331
Submitted By: David A. Turner on Nov 25, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Duncan coming to grips.
  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This excellent route is just to the right of The Grand Course on the West Ridge of Redgarden. It has two pitches, but it is better to do the first pitch of Silver Raven followed by the 11a pitch of Grand Course.

    Climb up the chimney on the right for about twenty feet. Place nuts out left from an insecure position and then traverse into the crux. Fire that, then get ready for a burly, awkward section just afterward (llb) to a much appreciated stance. Easier finger jams lead to a belay ledge where you are required to build your own anchor. David A. Turner


    Protection 

    Standard Eldo rack with Aliens.



    Photos of Silver Raven Slideshow Add Photo
    Silver Raven, 11d. Photo: Johanna Twiford.
    Silver Raven, 11d. Photo: Johanna Twiford.
    Rufus Miller leading Silver Raven, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
    Rufus Miller leading Silver Raven, photo: Bob Hora...
    the Hankinator cruisin' in style <br />photo by Julia Halaby
    the Hankinator cruisin' in style
    photo by Julia Ha...
    Comments on Silver Raven Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris Dawson
    From: Denver, CO
    Nov 26, 2001

    The guide gives this an "S" rating. How good is the pro on the first pitch?

    By steve dieckhoff
    Nov 28, 2001

    IF YOU DON'T WANT WAY TOO MUCH BETA DON'T READ THIS

    I think the pro on this is actually quite good but can be somewhat strenuous to place. From a stance you can clip a fixed bomber small stopper in the corner and then add several more. These protect the initial part of the crux and the highest is no lower than your feet when you place the next gear. A small cam and some stoppers can be placed from a pumpy stance on good holds in the corner. The next corner above takes very small cams well and 'over-your-head' stoppers. If you finish on the GRAND COURSE you might try placing something like a #2 or #3 Camalot in a short slot at the crux-the alternative is a wobbly nut. I didn't have the big cam when I did it a few months ago so I'm just guessing. You can find a rap anchor up and left from the end of GRAND COURSE, it's the top of PARIS GIRL.

    SILVER RAVEN is a great route-have fun.

    By Steve Levin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 29, 2001

    There are 2 different rap anchors on the broken ledge atop these routes- both are slings around trees. The right-most is directly above Paris Girls, and requires 2 ropes to get down. The other anchor is a bit left from here, and if you rap more into the gully left (careful of loose rock) it is possible to get off with a single 60m rope.

    By Chris Dawson
    From: Denver, CO
    Feb 12, 2002

    The slot that Steve D. mentions at the crux of the Grand Course takes a perfect 3.5 Camalot.

    By Brad Bond
    May 19, 2004
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

    I think the "s" on this route is another leftover from the early 80's when there were no micro cams. Going up on this route with a couple sets of TCU's and Aliens feels much more comforting than the thought of using nuts alone. Even with the new gear, this is a challenging lead as the gear is below your feet when climbing through the crux, and is very strenuous to place up high. (OK, maybe it still deserves and "s") This route -- finishing on the .11a crux of Grand Course -- can be led in one long, pumpy pitch from the ground. Wow!

    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Jul 30, 2006
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

    Absolutely spectacular climb. Great position and movement. Linked with the 2nd pitch of Grand Course creates a stellar line. One of Eldo's best!

    By Ben Walburn
    Mar 20, 2011
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13

    Spectacular route! The gear is tricky down low, but it is there. I felt like this was easier than other 11+ routes in the canyon. I give it 11c PG-13. At the top, I finished on the right set of anchors, not the Grand Course anchors. This allows for lowering to the pinnacle with a 60m cord. There are now bolted anchors on this route.

    By Rainbowweinstock
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 7, 2013
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

    Great climb! A couple of solid nuts (large RP and similarly sized nut) placed together right above the rusty old grey TCU took a lot of the hazard out of the climb for me. I did a few moves on the arete and then got a solid 0.4 Camalot jammed into the back of the slot on the right hand side. A 70m is very useful to have for this and Grand Course unless you want to play a lot of games getting people on and off of the ledge 30' above the ground.

    By craigw
    Jun 28, 2013

    As previously stated, this climb rules. You can get a good small cam (I used the 0.4 grey Camalot) way out left and around the corner from the main dihedral. You place it after you make the first move above the fixed cam from a good right hand hold. It's kind of a blind placement, but you can eye it up from the ground. Getting this piece allows you to punch through the crux section and not have to place pumpy gear.