2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is the sixth route from the right, just left of Bosch Blanket Bingo. Climb the obvious, small overhang with a flared fingercrack in its right side. This route is really fun... for about 10 feet. Then it's back to walking up the slab. It is not sustained, but worth doing if you're in the area. This is easier for tall folks.
Solid 5.11d with no left hand to speak of on the crux pull. Bomber crack for right finger must be used to walk the right foot onto a small vetical stem on narrow vertical face. Crank on right hand hold, shift weight into rock, step up with left foot onto small ledge and reach high for pocket with left hand. Very balancy move favoring taller climbers. The meat is 15' of hard cimbing.
From a sampling of this crag, there isn't much here that is too interesting. The 10 feet of tricky climbing on Silver Glide is cool, and definitely one of the area highlights. The crux seems to be legitimate 11+, although this is definitely an easy 11+ route, given that the hard part is pretty short. Feels more like a V3 boulder problem.
This really is just a one-move climb but the one move is really interesting. I had to think it over quite a while; half the difficulty is in ruling out the obvious alternatives. I also used Leo's "vulcan hold" for the left hand and then did a push with the right to stem the right foot up. After that I was able to stand up and reach the good stuff. Cranking off the finger crack would work, but is much more burly.
At first I thought this was solid 11c, but the second time I climbed it I was able to work out a better sequence in the crux. If you implement good foot work and balance, it's more like 11a/b. Also, my buddy Landon TRed it and found a good mantle variation at the crux to gain the right foot stem. Not sure how hairy that move would be on lead though. After the tricky crux, the grade eases down to very fun 5.10 face climbing. All in all, it's a good climb.