Silver Glide 5.11
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Mark Rolofson and Mark Milligan, 1996 |
| Submitted By: | Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Kevin about to crank the crux
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Description This is the sixth route from the right, just left of Bosch Blanket Bingo. Climb the obvious, small overhang with a flared fingercrack in its right side. This route is really fun... for about 10 feet. Then it's back to walking up the slab. It is not sustained, but worth doing if you're in the area. This is easier for tall folks.
Protection 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
Chris Perkins shamelessly TRing Silver Glide (5.11...
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By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 5, 2002
| Key, left hand, vulcan hold at the crux took a few rounds to find. |
By Ernie Port From: Boulder, Colorado Oct 9, 2002
| Solid 5.11d with no left hand to speak of on the crux pull. Bomber crack for right finger must be used to walk the right foot onto a small vetical stem on narrow vertical face. Crank on right hand hold, shift weight into rock, step up with left foot onto small ledge and reach high for pocket with left hand. Very balancy move favoring taller climbers. The meat is 15' of hard cimbing. |
By richard magill Jul 16, 2004 rating: 5.11d
| From a sampling of this crag, there isn't much here that is too interesting. The 10 feet of tricky climbing on Silver Glide is cool, and definitely one of the area highlights. The crux seems to be legitimate 11+, although this is definitely an easy 11+ route, given that the hard part is pretty short. Feels more like a V3 boulder problem. |
By ac Jun 22, 2005
Gear Alert
| Left anchor bolt-nut is loose. Next party should take a wrench and tighten it. Cheers, |
By grega Mar 25, 2006 rating: 5.11a/b
| Fun route. 11a, maybe 11b tops and somewhat bouldery crux. |
By Kevin Neilson From: Boulder May 23, 2006
| This really is just a one-move climb but the one move is really interesting. I had to think it over quite a while; half the difficulty is in ruling out the obvious alternatives. I also used Leo's "vulcan hold" for the left hand and then did a push with the right to stem the right foot up. After that I was able to stand up and reach the good stuff. Cranking off the finger crack would work, but is much more burly. |
By claramie From: Boulder, CO Mar 1, 2008
| Agree with 11a. Use good footwork to get up high through the crux. Fun moves and then easy after the crux. CL |
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Bend, OR Oct 20, 2008 rating: 5.11c
| Ouch. Crimpy left hands through the crux. Ouch. Worth a tick, but do it last to save your tips. |
By Jon Zucco From: Denver, CO Mar 22, 2011
| At first I thought this was solid 11c, but the second time I climbed it I was able to work out a better sequence in the crux. If you implement good foot work and balance, it's more like 11a/b. Also, my buddy Landon TRed it and found a good mantle variation at the crux to gain the right foot stem. Not sure how hairy that move would be on lead though. After the tricky crux, the grade eases down to very fun 5.10 face climbing. All in all, it's a good climb. |
By Paul Donald Andrews From: Nederland, Co. Mar 29, 2013
| TRed this with my son today. He got it clean on 2nd try, I hung once before pulling the moves on my 2nd try. We both enjoyed it a lot. It doesn't ease up all that much after the crux. |
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