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Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Science S 
Chronic Bedwetter S 
Hesitation S 
Intensive Care T,S 
Johnson Route S 
Ladder Route T,S,TR 
Reality Check S 
Robertson Wall S 
Silver Left T 
Tunnel Vision T,S,TR 

Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab 


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Page Views: 6,882
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Jan 1, 2002
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Description 

This excellent piece of granite is located in the upper part of North Cheyenne Canyon, above Helen Hunt Falls. It offers some of the best and most convenient slab climbing in the Pikes Peak region. The rock is very solid and compact. The routes offer mostly bolt protection, but as with slab routes, some of them are more sporty than sport. A rack of quick draws and a single rope should be all that is needed to enjoy the 13 or so routes located here. In winter, a moderate, 2 pitch ice climb forms below the slab. Most of the routes go to the summit of the slab. Tops ropes can be arranged on some routes after first leading them. See Garden of the Gods - Pikes Peak - Colorado by Bob D'Antonio 1996 for a reference.


Getting There 

Follow the directions for North Cheyenne Canyon. Drive US 24, go S on Cresta Rd, go W on N Cheyenne Canyon Rd. Helen Hunt Falls is located at the top of the canyon. Park at the visitor center, and hike up the signed trail to the top of the falls. Scramble through some bushes at the top of the overlook to the base of the cliff.


List of Routes 

L->R (until the update):

A. Silver Left, 6, 130'.
B. Tunnel Vision, 7, 5 bolts & gear.
C. Ladder Route, 6, bolts.
D. Robertson Wall, 7 R, 4 bolts.
E. Chronic Bedwetter, 7, 6 bolts & gear.
F1. Hesistation Slab, 7 R, 3-4 bolts.
F2. Reality Check, 8, 9 bolts. Probably easiest to identify.
G. Dihedral Route, 7, gear.
H. Johnson Route, 10+, bolts, 2p.
I. Black Science, 10, 2p, bolts.
J. Unknown, bolts.
K. Intensive Care, 8, bolts, 200'.
L. Lake Liquor, bolts.
M. Old Boy's Club, bolts & pin.
N. Unknown, bolts.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab:
Reality Check   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Black Science   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   
Johnson Route   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab

Featured Route For Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab
Dragging a rope on the Ladder Route.  This line follows the two cold shuts on the left; the bolts to the right are for Robertson Wall.

Ladder Route 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b CO : Colorado Springs : ... : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes...
This is the 3rd line from the left (2nd bolted line?) on the Silver Cascade Slab. However, it may appear to be the leftmost line unless you walk to the far, left end of the crag. Pleasant, runout, stickier than Reality Check.Find this by parking at the Helen Hunt Falls, hike up the established trail (c. 0.5 mi) above the falls, past & above Silver Cascade, and before the bridge, head up & right through the trees to the slab. Find this line as the left line of 4 obvious bolted slab lines on th...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Silver Cascade Slab taken on 5/11/03
BETA PHOTO: Silver Cascade Slab taken on 5/11/03
BETA PHOTO
Silver Cascade Slab east taken on 5/11/03
BETA PHOTO: Silver Cascade Slab east taken on 5/11/03
A typical belay for Silver Cascade.  I'm anchored to a big tree root.
A typical belay for Silver Cascade. I'm anchored ...
Silver Cascade Slab taken on 5/11/03
BETA PHOTO: Silver Cascade Slab taken on 5/11/03
The descent from Silver Cascade.
The descent from Silver Cascade.
Comments on Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 28, 2008
By Barrett Cooper
Jan 15, 2002

There are lot of bolts on the slab, especially around Chronic Bedwetter. So many, in fact, that I have found accidentally crossing over to other routes is not uncommon, and about the only way to stay on route is to follow one type of bolt all the way up. I would recommend taking 4-5 24inch or 36inch runners on the routes to make longer quickdraws, because rope drag at the top (runout section) of almost every route here is huge without the extra play in the rope.

By Barrett Cooper
Jun 12, 2002

It is 180+ feet to the trees on the top of the routes around Chronic Bedwetter so a 60m rope is a must.

By Sean O'Dell
Dec 13, 2002

I have yet to find a more polished piece of rock than the Cascade Slab. It seems to me as if a 5.8 here is a touch harder than 5.8 slabs elsewhere just due to the slickness of the rock. Unless you're just a seasoned slab monger, you may want to string up up one the more mellow lines (Tunnel Vision, etc) to start with just to get a feel for the rock.

By bb
May 4, 2003

What is the route to the right of Johnson route? the one the crosses the overhang after it drops off? What is the pitch above Johnson route rated? I did it today, and it was very fun.

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
May 14, 2003

Jason--(and others)--just in case you didn't know.I (and Myke sorta ;-) have a full-time job, still climb after work, run before work (on occasion), and try to have a life outside of hours of maintenance and work on the site.

I already linked some of the pics you submitted so they will appear tomorrow, but it's impractical for download times and useful beta (where are the routes?) to add all 8 (or however many there are) to one page. If you draw topos of routes, then I could link the pics to individual routes, but as is, they are just pictures of rock...

By Brian T. Wandzilak
Oct 20, 2003

Does anyone have a photoshopped image of Silver Cascade with the routes drawn in? Unfortunately my knowledge of the area is limited and I prefer visuals anyways. I basically just want to know what the heck I climbed yesterday. Thanks for your help.-BW

By Larry Shaw
Nov 29, 2003

You can use a 50m rope if you belay from the ramp on routes near chronic bedwetter. There is a 2 bolt anchor half way up reality check and the route just left of reality called Hesitation 5.8. There is also a 2 bolt anchor on the top of the left side of the slab for tunnel vision 5.7. If you don't like the 50ft runout on easy rock at the top of all the routes then there is a piton just above the short vertical section you can clip or there are a few spots for medium to small stoppers. Beware of the flake near the top of tunnel vision. Just left of the route there is a 25ft disk of detached rock. Just beware of it and don't place pro behind it.

By Joshua Balke
From: Colorado Springs
Jun 14, 2007

Just checked out this area today and had trouble defining routes based on the "Rock Climbing Colorado" guide. Perhaps it was the runout and the relatively slick rock, but the 5.6 center route didn't feel nearly that easy. Even here on MP, there are two routes listed (Robertson's Wall and the Ladder Route) that are listed as the second route from the left 5.6R. However, the guide states the first route is 5.6 second 5.7R etc. Anyone have a topo that has the current routes and accurate grades?

By Stewart M. Green
Jun 24, 2007

Josh,
I am revising RCCO right now. Rather finishing it. When I get back to COS next week (stuck in Yakima right now waiting for a new truck engine), I will email you the revised descriptions and ratings. Climbed most of the routes two weeks ago...S

By Matt Price
Oct 6, 2007

This area seems really nice for friction climbing experience on some good granite. I unfortunately discovered that one of the hangars is missing from the anchor on Reality Check and the next climb to the left. It seems that this is a common problem for this area (stolen hangars) which is unfortunate.

By Stewart M. Green
Oct 8, 2007

The anchor for Reality Check is the tree at the top of the cliff. I took that hanger off that extra bolt this past July. Travis Nolan placed the anchor the year (1995) after I did the FA of the route. It is simply a convenience anchor and is not needed. I've been meaning to chop that extra bolt for awhile and patch the hole. Likewise this route has sprouted all kinds of extra unnecessary bolts, including the first 2. So climb the route to the top of the cliff and hike off south around the slab to get off.

By Matt Price
Oct 9, 2007

Stewart,
Thanks for the info! I guess the description on this page does say that most of the routes go to the top. I just assumed there would be an anchor near the top, or enough bolts to not face a 30ft runout. I'm sure this is nothing compared to Yosemite climbing, or other slab granite areas, but there's nowhere at the top to supplement with trad gear, and I'm a pansy :D .

By Nick Grue
From: Northglenn, CO
Oct 28, 2008

I have had a really hard time distinguishing which routes are to the left of Black Science. It almost looks like more routes have been added since the printing of "Rock Climbing Colorado" by Stewart Green. Any tips on which routes are which?